Mach 1 Front end conversion on a GT?

[amatsubara]

It is not really difficult per se. But it takes precision, plenty of work space and act of bravery. I laid both bumper covers (OEM and 777) on the floor (if after painting, make sure to use large styrofoam sheet or some thing to protect the paint, of course) side by side then, first, marked the position of the turn signal assembly brackets on the 777 bumper cover with bright-colored sharpie (silver works well). Then I pulled and cut off the brackets from both bumper covers. Made paper stencils off of the 777 bumper cover to transfer the bracket attachment position onto the OEM cover -- this was the hardest step for me. I used 3M Industrial Plastic Adhesive 4693H (available on Amazon) to fix the brackets and then later plastic-welded them. Side vent inserts, OEM and 777 ones, are interchangeable -- so there is no problem using 777 side vent inserts on the OEM bumper cover. That's it. I used Diode Dynamics 2018-23 turn signal assembly, which has fog lights and can be used as white driving lights. With an adaptor that goes between the headlight assembly and its plug, you can use the the DD turn signal assembly as extra driving light without tapping into the original wiring. You want to be very precise in transferring the bracket attachment position.

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[ToolboxTay]

Awesome, thank you again for the help, it will be quite some time before I get started on switching the front end, but I am trying to get as much information as possible while I can. Someone nearby on FB marketplace was selling one of the aftermarket 2018+ Mach 1 conversions for $320 so I was considering picking that up and using it as donor parts for the brackets, side vents, and upper grill to try and save some money since the OEM upper grill is almost $1000 in itself.

 

[amatsubara]

You may want to make sure that the particular aftermarket conversion kit is a precise copy. I know that the 777 kit is really well made. And I suspect that the no-brand kit I bought on eBay prior to the 777 one may have been made the same manufacturer. But I cannot really comment on the one you are looking at. One non-777 aftermarket Mach 1 face that I saw on YouTube did not look right. So, I guess there are some poorly made ones out there too.

I would say that the aftermarket upper grille insert is just as good as the OEM one (both the 777 and the no-brand eBay ones) as long as it gets painted right. (I don't particularly like the irremovable big running horse fixed in the middle of the OEM grille -- prefer my custom-made little emblem on the side, similar to the original 69 Mach 1's.) But for the lower grille I would recommend using an OEM insert. The OEM lower grille insert is much more rigid with side walls, which also provide attachment tabs for the crush isolator and work with brake-cooling air ducts. The lower grille inserts that came with the 777 and no-brand eBay kits are flat and flimsy.

 

[amatsubara]

777 bumper cover.
Upper grille and side vent inserts are 777.
Lower grille insert is OEM.
The emblem is the one for 65 Shelby, repainted and fixed with custom-made bracket.

 

[amatsubara]

The upper chin splitter is OEM.

 

[ToolboxTay]

Hers a screenshot of the listing, looks like there is a little damage on it which may be why it's pretty cheap, but it does look very similar to the 777/ExtremeOnlineStore/Vicrez ones and as long as the mounts work then it may still be worth it. I'm taking a look at it in person later this week to confirm the condition and see if I can get any more information from the seller regarding brand, hardware, if they still have the instructions and so on.

 

[amatsubara]

It's probably good, but I cannot be sure.

Make sure to check the corners of the side vent inserts. They, especially aftermarket ones, crack very easily during assembly / disassembly.

Also, pay close attention to the posts for screws. The screws that came with my aftermarket kits seemed too big. So I used Ford's park lamp screws (W507043-S450B -- thinner with sparser pitch) to avoid cracking the posts. If the seller used the screws that came with the kit, posts may be cracked.

Bad existing paint job may make your painter's job difficult -- cannot really tell in the picture.

Also, if you were to use this aftermarket bumper cover for your project, you may want to take a close look at the tabs on the bottom. U-nuts attach to those tabs to receive screws. On 777 (not so much on OEM) it is really easy to rip those tabs with power tools.

Another pointer for the bumper cover is the attachment tabs in the "jaw joints." These tabs are supposed to be supported from the bottom by the support bracket, which is a plastic block with two fixed screws. This tab is really important to keep the gap in the jaw joint closed. 777's assembly instruction video on YouTube tells you to put the bracket from the fender side, rather than from the underside of the tab. If you follow this instruction, the tab will likely to get damaged with the weight of the bumper cover. (The reason for this instruction is because on the 777 bumper cover, the jaw joint tab and the tab on the back end of the cover for the wheel well liner are joined without leaving enough space for the bracket. Like I mentioned in one of my previous posts, by simply sawing off the back end of the support bracket you can used it correctly from the bottom.)

 

[amatsubara]

The "posts" in the above posting refer to the attachment posts for turn signal assemblies. They are found both on the bumper cover and side vent inserts, if I remember correctly.

 

[AlphaTheBum]

That’s from triple seven. Just a fair warning depending on your paint and what’s required. It will NOT be cheap.

 

[emg75189]

That’s from triple seven. Just a fair warning depending on your paint and what’s required. It will NOT be cheap.

What wasn't cheap? The paint or installation?

I want to do this too, but wondering what a shop would charge to paint and install.

 

[amatsubara]

Unsolicited advise:
Good paint job will not be cheap. But unless you are a professional painter, ask a pro to do it.
Installation is not difficult. Watch inspection videos a few times, walk through the process in your head and proceed carefully. Don’t hesitate to ask. Be always willing to stop and review. You can do a better job than anyone in the shop!

 

[amatsubara]

I paid -$800 for each project (including inserts painted in gloss black). Royal Crimson is really 4-step paint job, not 3. I then repainted inserts in Mach 1 Magnetic Grey out of spray cans sold by LMR ($50 for 2 cans).

 

[Nickel]

I did a 2016 GTPP to 22 Mach 1 HP conversion...worth every penny..

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