Full Body PPF Cost

[2021 Mach 1]

Anybody recently do a full body PPF on their car? I'm seeing prices of £3,500-£4,500 for some London based shops. I believe that excludes paint-correction and ceramic coating. I want a good job and good materials, but just trying to get a sense of cost. Thanks

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[Supersolo]

I spent £4k on ppf for the entire car, but it was done in two stages, by two companies.
First stage was the splitter to 'A' pillar, by a bunch I would not recommend.

A short time later, I had the rest of the car ppf'd by Jules Sturgess in Cambridgeshire.

After my experience, I'd suggest that researching the product is key, after which then I would source a qualified and certified vendor.

I went for expel and while it has done a great job, it doesn't appear to have the UV/heat regen features of other products. The bonnet took a strike early on and while the ppf has a white mark in it, I'm confident the paint beneath is fine. I'm lead to believe other products would have reacted to heat and light (summer) to make the white strike disappear/ppf regen.
I believe Sun produce a heat-reset product which may do a better job, long term.
Do your research.

It's definitely worth it. The lowest element on my bumper doesn't have ppf (long story), but the rest of the front facia/bumper does and after nearly four years, the road rash on that lower element is evident. Compared directly with a ppf'd panel above it, the difference is night and day.

It's the first time I've ppf'd a car but I'm sold.
Done correctly, using a good product, it's well worth the money, in the long term.
I use to wash, polish and wax my cars, it took many hours to complete the entire process.
Now I just 2 bucket wash, dry and boom, the paint is as good as it was from the initial application of ppf, because the ppf locked in the finish and keeps out the road-rash/stone chips.

 

[2021 Mach 1]

I spent £4k on ppf for the entire car, but it was done in two stages, by two companies.
First stage was the splitter to 'A' pillar, by a bunch I would not recommend.

A short time later, I had the rest of the car ppf'd by Jules Sturgess in Cambridgeshire.

After my experience, I'd suggest that researching the product is key, after which then I would source a qualified and certified vendor.

I went for expel and while it has done a great job, it doesn't appear to have the UV/heat regen features of other products. The bonnet took a strike early on and while the ppf has a white mark in it, I'm confident the paint beneath is fine. I'm lead to believe other products would have reacted to heat and light (summer) to make the white strike disappear/ppf regen.
I believe Sun produce a heat-reset product which may do a better job, long term.
Do your research.

It's definitely worth it. The lowest element on my bumper doesn't have ppf (long story), but the rest of the front facia/bumper does and after nearly four years, the road rash on that lower element is evident. Compared directly with a ppf'd panel above it, the difference is night and day.

It's the first time I've ppf'd a car but I'm sold.
Done correctly, using a good product, it's well worth the money, in the long term.
I use to wash, polish and wax my cars, it took many hours to complete the entire process.
Now I just 2 bucket wash, dry and boom, the paint is as good as it was from new, because ppf locked in the finish and keeps out the road-rash/stone chips.

Thanks for the feedback, very helpful! That's interesting, I thought most of them regenerate with warm sun or warm water poured over them. Did you have the car paint-corrected as well before having the PPF applied?

 

[Supersolo]

Did you have the car paint-corrected as well before having the PPF applied?

Yes, that's pretty much a given. Right or wrong, my car left the factory with less than ideal paint finish. With ppf you're locking in the paint finish, so I had a body shop I use, detail the car's paint work first (additional cost), to remove the swirls and other defects in the factory finish, before I had the car ppf'd.
Paint correction before ppf is essential in my opinion. Otherwise don't bother.


Edit:
I haven't ceramic coated the car, I think these two different products, do two different jobs.
I went straight to ppf and haven't regretted it and see no need for ceramic, if I was going ppf.
Sure, it's not cheap, but after nearly four years it averages out each year at a lower cost, it's a mod that holds it's value on resale (not a consideration for me) and considering the amount of time and hassle it's saved me in washing, polishing and waxing, I'm happy with it.

 

[2021 Mach 1]

Yes, that's pretty much a given. Right or wrong, my car left the factory with less than ideal paint finish. With ppf you're locking in the paint finish, so I had a body shop I use, detail the car's paint work first (additional cost), to remove the swirls and other defects in the factory finish, before I had the car ppf'd.
Paint correction before ppf is essential in my opinion. Otherwise don't bother.

What did the paint correction cost? I'm seeing prices of £500-1,000 in London. Thanks again!

 

[Supersolo]

A couple of hundred quid.

Remember, the paint work off-rip should be " OK-ish ", but if you're going ppf, it has to be mint.
But as it's a new car, the detail shouldn't entail much work, unless you've been unlucky enough to already have had a stone chip or something.

I'd be looking to around £200-£250 to detail a brand new car, because there really shouldn't be much to correct, compared to a car that's been on the road for a year, etc.

But if you're spending £4k to lock-in a paint finish, the paint has to be up to spec, imo.
So it's detail first, then ppf, for me.
£500 for a glorified polish (detail) seems naughty to me, even if it is London.

 

[2021 Mach 1]

A couple of hundred quid.

Remember, the paint work off-rip should be " OK-ish ", but if you're going ppf, it has to be mint.
But as it's a new car, the detail shouldn't entail much work, unless you've been unlucky enough to already have had a chip of something.

I'd be looking to around £200-£250 to detail a brand new car, because there really shouldn't be much to correct, compared to a car that's been on the road or a year, etc.

But if you're spending £4k to lock-in a paint finish, the paint has to be up to spec, imo.
So it's detail, then ppf, for me.
£500 for a glorified polish (detail) seems naughty to me, even if it is London.

I'm also hearing that my non-standard bonnet means the PPF will cost more as it's not a ready pattern. :-/

 

[Supersolo]

I'm also hearing that my non-standard bonnet means the PPF will cost more as it's not a ready pattern. :-/

Ah! Well yeah, now you're into bespoke ppf patterns. My advice here would be:
Do.
Not.
Allow.
On panel cuts.
I would expect the person applying the ppf, to develop patterns, off the car and then apply the ppf pre-cut to those patterns.

Sometimes, people apply ppf and cut it on the panel.
This has a risk of cutting into the paint lacquer.
I would avoid this practice and anyone who does this.

Ok, that's it, 9pm and I am outta here!
Post some pics of your new ride, somewhere on the forum, I'll try to find them.
Have a good evening

 

[hinch]

I had the mustang done years ago cost me like 1500 quid for paint correction, full xpel ultimate and then ceramic coating.

more recently (september) I had the vantage fully done in gyeon matte ppf cost me 2700 for full car + ceramic coating, didn't need paint correction as the paint was immaculate and matte from the factory anyway.

 

[2021 Mach 1]

I had the mustang done years ago cost me like 1500 quid for paint correction, full xpel ultimate and then ceramic coating.

more recently (september) I had the vantage fully done in gyeon matte ppf cost me 2700 for full car + ceramic coating, didn't need paint correction as the paint was immaculate and matte from the factory anyway.

Thanks mate. The £2,700 sounds good. May I ask what region you live in? Cheers

 

[hinch]

All done by https://cleandetail.co.uk/ in Doncaster (south yorkshire)

 

[Gregs24]

I'd have to say other than a few specific high risk parts on some cars I'm not convinced about PPF. Yes it works, BUT it costs a lot compared to corrective paint treatments which I have seen be very effective and reasonably priced.

After 17k miles I have minimal damage on my Mustang (just 2 or 3 chips that I have touched in) and it gets nothing more than car shampoo on a regular basis. It still looks like new.

 

[2021 Mach 1]

I'd have to say other than a few specific high risk parts on some cars I'm not convinced about PPF. Yes it works, BUT it costs a lot compared to corrective paint treatments which I have seen be very effective and reasonably priced.

After 17k miles I have minimal damage on my Mustang (just 2 or 3 chips that I have touched in) and it gets nothing more than car shampoo on a regular basis. It still looks like new.

I think if I had my own garage and driveway with the ability to wash my own car, then I would not even consider PPF. Unfortunately, that's not the case. I do have to have my car washed by someone else as a result. My mobile detailer is very good, but obviously is not cheap. Where I park my car, they offer complimentary car washes, but unfortunately the guys that do the washes do not do the best job (no snow foam, take the mitt from the bottom to the top of the car, wash the wheels last, etc). So, my concern is over time the car will get lots of swirl marks on it. Obviously, I can have the paint corrected, but there's only so many times that I can have the clear coat corrected. Maybe I should move LOL

 

[Gregs24]

I think if I had my own garage and driveway with the ability to wash my own car, then I would not even consider PPF. Unfortunately, that's not the case. I do have to have my car washed by someone else as a result. My mobile detailer is very good, but obviously is not cheap. Where I park my car, they offer complimentary car washes, but unfortunately the guys that do the washes do not do the best job (no snow foam, take the mitt from the bottom to the top of the car, wash the wheels last, etc). So, my concern is over time the car will get lots of swirl marks on it. Obviously, I can have the paint corrected, but there's only so many times that I can have the clear coat corrected. Maybe I should move LOL

Fair enough. To be honest a daily driver will just wear out in many ways compared to a low mileage garage queen. I just drive mine and keep it clean (not perfect) and it gets muddy and dusty. As with several Ford cars of late I'm impressed how good the car looks with just washing after many years.

I think if you strive the perfect car paint then you either can't drive the car, or will be constantly disappointed / stressed about it. I drive mine and don't worry about it.

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