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Entire Headlights modifications

John577

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Guys,

After a long wait, here's my thread about my modifications on the lights.
Sorry for the title, but "The installation thread for Swapping the entire HID from 25w D8S to 35w D3s with an installation of the tri-bars and the sequential turn " was a bit to long :lol:

First thing you have to do, is to remove bumper + lights from the car.
What is the look of the car after removing the stuff ?

This :




But after, you can add/remove Bulbs and ballasts without removing bumper and lights, but your hands needs to be very flexible :)

I removed the ballast without removing the light from the car :


PART 1 : Headlights

You have 2 choices to put the new Bulbs into the lights.

1. Cut the notch in the light :


2. Modify the bulb to go inside :

To modify the bulb, you simply need a tool like a "Dremel" to made a hole that fits the little notch in the light. Like this :


D8S left, D3S right


Difference in the connectors of the 2 bulbs :

On the D8S bulb, we have a piece of plastic inside the connector. So need a new cable when you swap it for another model.


I used the method 1.
So with this method, you can now put all the bulbs into the car (D1S, D2S, D3S, ...)

The ballasts have exactly the same form so they are Plug&play. You just need a cable to power the new bulbs.

D8S HID needs : D8S ballasts + D8S Bulb + D8S bulb alimentation cable
D3S HID needs : D3S ballasts + D3S Bulb + D3S bulb alimentation cable

The Ballast's power cable is still the same, you remove it from the D8S ballast and you plug it to your new ballast. That's all.



PART 2 : Tri-bar + Sequential turn

Mmm, for this point I can put Papinist's entire thread.
I've done exactly the same as he done on his car.

[MENTION=12253]papinist[/MENTION], I share your links here again, you made a total good job and it really helped me to do my mod. Thanks again mate :thumbsup:

Papinist's PART 1 :
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=951118&postcount=27
Papinist's PART 2 :
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showpost.php?p=951120&postcount=28

And sadly, I saw that I don't have pictures for this steps ... :frusty:
So I will be a bad boy and stole papinist's pictures :headbonk: :headbonk:
I hope you will not blame me for that ... :D

I will take some pictures tonight of my car, so I can update the pictures with my car :thumbsup:

But for now, you have the complete story :thumbsup:

Here's the short version without pictures :

  • +12V for DD modul -> I used the power cable from the wipers
  • Ground for DD modul -> I used a ground that I found in the area of the headlights
  • +12V for turn -> Sequential turn also have a modul that need power, for that, I plug the cable to the fuse box to have always power (with a new fuse)

  • Turn cable -> Plug it to you Stock turn cables to activate turn

Here's the story with the stolen pictures ... :D :ninja: :

+12V for DD modul -> I used the power cable from the wipers





Ground for DD modul -> I used a ground that I found in the area of the headlights



+12V for turn -> Sequential turn also have a modul that need power, for that, I plug the cable to the fuse box to have always power (with a new fuse)



Turn cable -> Plug it to you Stock turn cables to activate turn

Connect it to the (+) of your turn signal cable



Here's where I put the DD modul :



To attach the cables I used this. Very fast and very good to plug it to your stock cables.


And this for the connexion to the fuse box :


And this to adjust the lenght of the cables :


And the last tool that you really need to have, THE ELECTRICIAN TAPE :headbang:
So that way you can isolated your cables.



I also installed resistor to my car, so now, I have no longer the turn signal that flashes very fast on the Dash.


That's how to plug your resistor for the turn signal, very easy.


And after a long night, the finished view is just amazing !!! :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:













Difference between D8S and D3S in a night shot :

D8S left, D3S right :


Same here, D8S left, D3S right :


Some videos :

- tri-bar + sequential turn in action
[ame]

- The Blue color of the CBI's :
[ame]


Cheers :thumbsup: :cheers:
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CertoDimi

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Great write-up Could you tell, give or take one, how many hours it has taken you from start to finish?

Ou ĂŞtes vous en france qqpart?
Bon boulot!
 

friendgr

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John you should open separate thread for the Tribars.

Once the questions start, we 'll be very confused. Some people will ask questions for the headlights and some others for the tribars.
 

friendgr

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What's the usage of the notch? Any side effects when you cut it?
As far as I understand the notch is securing the bulb case to fit in its place , avoiding any possible twisting. Correct?

If you cut the notch the bulb will potentiany stands unsecured. Will be there any possible problem from the vibrations of the car?

Finally, does the result worth $500 ?
 
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John577

John577

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IMO it's easier to have all the informations in one thread. But yes, I can open 2 separate threads for that.

I made the job during 6 hours and we were 2 persons.

Yes, the notch is here for securing the bulb so he can't turn inside the headlight.
For now, I have no side effect, the bulb is still in his place.

In addition to the notch, you have 2 pins each side of the bulb. So the bulb is plated in the light and can't go outside.

For me, NO. the result don't worth $500

It gives a good light improvement, but don't worth that price.

You should definitely buy an LED HID set (but don't tell it to [MENTION=18562]YLA G[/MENTION] :lol:)
Cheaper and with more power (45w -> 9000lm or 55w -> 10400lm)
 
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papinist

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Great job John!! Very useful!
No problem at all with pics mate :D I'm glad my thread has helped you, this forum is made to share info and help each others :)
[MENTION=14187]friendgr[/MENTION]: from pics it seems that bulbs have two notches, one round and one square shaped. The round one seems to exist only to not exchange bulbs with other models :) even removing that, the square one should be enough to avoid bulb to rotate.
 
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John577

John577

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Great job John!! Very useful!
No problem at all with pics mate :D I'm glad my thread has helped you, this forum is made to share info and help each others :)
[MENTION=14187]friendgr[/MENTION]: from pics it seems that bulbs have two notches, one round and one square shaped. The round one seems to exist only to not exchange bulbs with other models :) even removing that, the square one should be enough to avoid bulb to rotate.
Yes, the square shaped holds the bulb in place. And as I said, the bulb is also hold by 2 pins.
So the bulb will remain in place also with vibrations.
 

friendgr

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OK I vote for Led as well.

Are you sure that 45watt or 55watt will not damage the interior housing due to high temp. ?
 

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friendgr

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So, do you believe that no heat will go inside the projector from the tip of the bulb?
 

friendgr

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Let's assume there is no heating problem.

There are dozen of led lamps out there. How we can be sure for the proper one in order to fit to the housing?
 

YLA G

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I would say test the nr 1 on Amazon. If it has such high reviews it must be good. About the fitment, well i think they xenon are even more bulky, but that are things that John and canniga can look in to it.

But I am sure we figure it out, and Leds are way more cooler and "prestige" like
 
 




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