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ECU Wiring Diagram

OrangeCali16

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Hi. I'm looking for the wiring diagram for the ECU, specifically to try and find out a tap for rpm signal to be able to install a shift light.

If somebody has already done it, please share the method.

We should also be able to reprogram the collision warning light as shift light like in the GT350.
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FordTechOne

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The RPM output from the PCM is a networked message. There is no circuit out of the PCM that has an RPM signal, also known as CTO (Clean Tach Out). You will only find that output of truck applications, as it is used for upfitting.

The only way to have a shift light would be to get an aftermarket display that plugs into the DLC and flashes when you reach the desired RPM. These cars have a factory shift light as well; the tachometer turns red when you reach redline - are you aware of that feature?
 

sunfigt

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Do you have to turn that feature "on" in the screen menu?

The RPM output from the PCM is a networked message. There is no circuit out of the PCM that has an RPM signal, also known as CTO (Clean Tach Out). You will only find that output of truck applications, as it is used for upfitting.

The only way to have a shift light would be to get an aftermarket display that plugs into the DLC and flashes when you reach the desired RPM. These cars have a factory shift light as well; the tachometer turns red when you reach redline - are you aware of that feature?
 

RubyRedBoost

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The RPM output from the PCM is a networked message. There is no circuit out of the PCM that has an RPM signal, also known as CTO (Clean Tach Out). You will only find that output of truck applications, as it is used for upfitting.

The only way to have a shift light would be to get an aftermarket display that plugs into the DLC and flashes when you reach the desired RPM. These cars have a factory shift light as well; the tachometer turns red when you reach redline - are you aware of that feature?

That feature is only with the premium pkg.
 

CeleronXXX

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I tapped into cyl#1 coil plug, I think it was green and orange, I didn't even technically "tap" into it, I simply cut the protective layer of the wire back about 1 inch and slid it right into the factory connector and it holds firm and no reason to splice. I'm getting a clean signal with the raptor light on the settings they recommend
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