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Bullitt handling improvements without reducing ground clearance, ride, or NVH.

Discussion in '2019-2020 Bullitt Mustang' started by Elp_jc, Jul 30, 2020.

  1. Elp_jc

    Elp_jc Well-Known Member

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    Hey gang, like most of you, I'm satisfied with the overall performance of my Bullitt, because in order to have a 'grand tourer' with decent street manners, it's obviously going to have some handling compromises. And I'm fine with them for the most part. BUT, if I can improve the handling a little without any ground clearance, ride characteristics, additional NVH, be able to DIY, and no need to take it to any shop (alignment, etc), I'd definitely do it :D. And only if it makes sense. And I said that because I was going to add the Steeda regular G-brace, but reportedly the rear is what needs the most help, so it wouldn't make sense to stiffen the front even more, and leave the rear alone IMO, but feel free to comment on that :).

    Now, I talked to a Steeda guy who got a little nasty when I said I wasn't interested in their full 'Steve McQueen' package because I didn't want to reduce ground clearance. But at least got out of the pissed off guy that the rear of the car needed help the most. Anyway, my only bad handling experience so far was on a road with one curve that has undulations, and the car went into a sideways rocking motion resembling an old barge. Not dangerous, but very un-sports-car like. And did it again the other day in sport mode (hardest MagneRide setting of 2), and car felt better, but still not what it should be IMO, so probably the rear sub-frame dancing around. And this was at a modest pace. The car corners MUCH better than that when the road is smoother. By the way, I've driven that same road in several Porsches, including a Macan, and never felt that behavior, so it's definitely something that can be improved upon. But that's the only place I've felt any need to improve the handling, so definitely not something that must be fixed.

    Okay, so let's get to it. Lowering springs are out of the question for me, and wouldn't do it with MargeRide shocks anyway. In addition to that, the full 4-point G-brace is also out due to those front vertical posts sticking down at 90-deg to an incoming object (frequently encountered where I live). Therefore, up front, I'd only be open to install the regular G-brace... IF I do something to the rear. I like to have the car 'balanced', as much as possible. So the question is this: Is there anything that can be done at the back that won't affect the ride, increase NVH, or ground clearance (which I don't think is the case at the back)? Just one last comment: I have Steeda's full length jacking rails, which might interfere with the IRS support braces. My suspicion is that just like even the mildest MT-82 transmission mount 2-hole 'plug', the Steeda 'stop-the-hop' kit doesn't add any NVH, which I find that hard to believe. If that's true, then the question is if the support brace is enough for my needs (I'll never launch the car, so hop will never be an issue for me), or do I need that 3-part kit. If that brace interferes with the jacking rails, then how about using the other 2 parts of the 'stop-the-hop' kit? Would that accomplish anything to minimize rear sub-frame while cornering without adding NVH or affecting ride? All comments welcome, but keep in mind my goal is to keep my Bullitt as a comfortable grand-tourer, not a sports car :D. Thanks gang.
     
  2. Ronin47

    Ronin47 Well-Known Member

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    I have the Steeda jacking rails and put in the rear vertical links from BMR. I found the rear end behaving much better on uneven roads
     
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    Elp_jc

    Elp_jc Well-Known Member

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    Will look at those, since I know nothing about them. Thank you for the heads up.
     
  4. Chente04

    Chente04 Active Member

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  5. Ronin47

    Ronin47 Well-Known Member

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  6. OP
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    Elp_jc

    Elp_jc Well-Known Member

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    You guys didn't mention if there was any negative effects (added NVH, harsher ride, etc), even if a little. What is it? :D
     
  7. Ronin47

    Ronin47 Well-Known Member

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    As far as NVH and been driving it for awhile, I have not noticed any issues with it. The ride was not harsher at all, it just felt the rear was a bit more planted and it removed the wheel hop when I gassed it. For handling, it did improve a bit as there was less flex in the rear, but this would be my experience and it may be different from yours. I am glad that I did this change as I really did not want to change the ride height also and mucking around with the Magnaride. I might do more handling upgrades, I just haven't figured it out yet as this is my summer street toy.
     
  8. nms_1122

    nms_1122 Member

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    I have the Steeda jacking rails and the Steeda subframe braces. The rails provide some added stiffness to the body. But I was honestly surprised how much the subframe braces stiffen up the rear end. Wish I would've done it immediately. Simple install, no modifications needed and a huge difference in ride. Power is down to the ground much better. No change in NVH that I can feel or hear. In my opinion these are two must have mods for the Bullitt (or any Mustang really).
     
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    Elp_jc

    Elp_jc Well-Known Member

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    Hey, which rails? I have the 'full length' ones, and I think they interfere with the braces, but hope to be wrong. Hopefully that's what you have :D. So you just installed the subframe braces, and not the 'stop the hop' full kit, right? Finally, do they stick down lower than any other part of the car? Steeda didn't take any pictures straight from behind, so can't really tell, since they were taken at an angle. Finally, did the instructions include torque values? And no need to re-align the car, or anything like that, correct? Thx.

    Oh, and the ride is not any harsher, was it? Couldn't tell by your comment. Thanks brother.
     
  10. tj@steeda

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    The Steeda IRS braces will work with any of the Steeda jacking rails we produce - no interference.

    May I ask, whom did you speak with at Steeda?

    TJ
     
  11. Bulldog9

    Bulldog9 Member

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    Looking at the Steeda webpage, it looks like they designed the rear subframe braces and jacking rails to work together. I'm planning on these, and the front brace. . The BMR pieces above look interesting as well. I'm coming out of years with a BMW M3, and while I really like the GT nature of the Bullitt, there is a bit more front end float and rear looseness than I'd like when in on/off throttle situations. I haven't gotten deep enough in the go pedal to have the rear end break loose or get hop yet (only 700 miles) but will eventually I am sure.

    Just want to button thing down a bit.
     
  12. tj@steeda

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    The Steeda IRS pieces are stout & proven - from the starter, to the ultimate Stop the Hop kit, they will be a vast improvement over stock - without adding NVH.

    Let me know if I can help assist with forum pricing or put you in touch with one of our suspension build experts.

    Have a great night,

    TJ
     
    SunTzu and Bulldog9 like this.
  13. Bulutt

    Bulutt Well-Known Member

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    I added the front strut brace which is not included on rhd Bullitts then added the Steeda 2 point G track brace up front also. Steeda MagneRide lowering springs, Steeda sub frames braces, painted black, and Steeda subframe bushing supports. Nothing hangs down, there is no increase in NVH that I can detect BUT the car is much tighter yet still compliant. But if you have concerns just cruise with the car as is. I didn’t really need to do anything but I like to mod my cars to personalise them. Still working on getting my new wheels and then maybe upgrading the interior leather design; then maybe.........
     
  14. nms_1122

    nms_1122 Member

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    I have the full length low profile. They work just fine with the subframe braces. You are correct, I opted for just the braces which made a huge difference for me. The ride is no harsher. Just feels tighter overall. Neither the braces nor the rails are any lower than any other part of the car. The braces bolted up just fine for me without having to loosen the subframe bolts. Didn't need to realign the car either. The instructions included all the torque specs needed. I would recommend both the jacking rails and the subframe braces as a must-have item for any Mustang!
     
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    Elp_jc

    Elp_jc Well-Known Member

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    #15 Elp_jc, Aug 4, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2020
    Hey NMS, can you please post a photo that shows the rear end of the full-length jacking rail and both sub-frame mounting points? Just saw the CJP video installation of the Steeda rear sub-frame brace, and front bolt (of the 2) they show, is already used by the jacking rail. I initially thought it'd use the last bolt (next to the jacking rail), and an unused threaded hole behind it about 4" away. But nope; it uses 2 existing bolts, which I only have 1 available. Curious to see your car. Thanks.

    It only sticks down from the rail, but it's in front of the rear tire, and it's higher than the differential, so not a big deal. Since that mod doesn't touch the bushings, it makes sense that there's no added NVH, which is exactly what I wanted. Thanks man. It's just a matter that it can be installed; not sure what I'm missing, but hope your photo of a Bullitt identical to mine clarifies it :).

    By the way, I only plan to do 2 suspension mods: the rear sub-frame braces, and the G 2-point front brace; that's it. Would that improve cornering/handling noticeably? The CJP video says the rear sub-frame is for launching, which I'll never do, but hope it also works for cornering, especially when hitting bumps, to avoid the pogo stick motion present now.

    EDIT: This is the CJP video I was referencing: Go to minute 1:22. The sheet metal seam (parallel to the rear 'axle') next to the bolt where the socket is, confirms there's no way to mount that bar on my car with the full length jacking rail. The second bolt ahead of that one is already used on the rail. And there aren't any other bolt holes I could have used to move the rail farther to the front. Unless the brace design changed from the video above (will check Steeda's site now), I cannot bolt it as is. Hopefully the Steeda guy can comment on that. Below is a picture of my jacking rail, to confirm the 2 bolts we're talking about are the same:
    Bullitt rail.JPG
     
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