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Brake bleed system?

RoadRacer

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I’m planning to change stock brake fluid for SRF while installing suspension components. Question is what others are using for a pressure/vacuum system. Opinions of one type over the other? Also, if using the Motive-like pressure units, what is the correct reservoir cap? Thanks for the help!
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Rainier42

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I’m planning to change stock brake fluid for SRF while installing suspension components. Question is what others are using for a pressure/vacuum system. Opinions of one type over the other? Also, if using the Motive-like pressure units, what is the correct reservoir cap? Thanks for the help!
I use a Motive Power bleeder - I can verify if it fits as I am doing mine tonight (0109). I modified mine to have a male end inserted in the bottle for my shop air along with a digital regulator. This way you do not need to keep pumping up the bottle in the middle of a bleed.
 

krt22

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So the Motive 0109 standard cap fits?
That is the entire kit, if you have have the bottle you need adapter 1109.

I bought it, received it this weekend, have not done a test fit but they specifically call out the 2015+ mustang on their website.
 

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kart125

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What is the correct pressure to bleed out brakes? Just bought the Motive bleeder and will be doing mine when it gets here.
 

mattlqx

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What is the correct pressure to bleed out brakes? Just bought the Motive bleeder and will be doing mine when it gets here.
You're just pushing the fluid out. The more pressurized the bottle, the more pressure it'll come out with at the bleeder screw. Don't go crazy, go to like 10-12, and just re-pump when you run low.
 

shelbyman

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I’m planning to change stock brake fluid for SRF while installing suspension components. Question is what others are using for a pressure/vacuum system. Opinions of one type over the other? Also, if using the Motive-like pressure units, what is the correct reservoir cap? Thanks for the help!
I called Motive and the tech guy there said this is the right pressure bleeder for the 2016 Mustang. I don't have it yet so we'll see if the cap with it fits my car. I hope it does as I bought it from Amazon used but its coming from Motive...go figure.:shrug: Supposed to have a couple of scuff marks on the bottle.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder
 

TDC

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I use a Motive Power bleeder - I can verify if it fits as I am doing mine tonight (0109). I modified mine to have a male end inserted in the bottle for my shop air along with a digital regulator. This way you do not need to keep pumping up the bottle in the middle of a bleed.
Any concern of your shop air having a lot of moisture and introducing it to the fluid? Reason I ask is my "shop" air consists of a pathetic Craftsmen 5 gallon compressor without a dryer of any kind.

I believe SRF is silicone based and therefore is not hydroscopic but regardless is it wise to bleed with shop air?
 

wildcatgoal

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Why not just PULL the fluid with a hand pump from the bleeder? Skip worrying about a air compressor...
 

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kart125

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You're just pushing the fluid out. The more pressurized the bottle, the more pressure it'll come out with at the bleeder screw. Don't go crazy, go to like 10-12, and just re-pump when you run low.

More is not better as excessive pressure can damage the ABS module. 10-12 sounds like a good plan!
 

shelbyman

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Why not just PULL the fluid with a hand pump from the bleeder? Skip worrying about a air compressor...
Yes you can use something like the MityVac to create a vacuum at the bleeder and do it that way. I wouldn't think there would be any downside to doing it that way. I see it done in repair shops all the time that way. Personally I'll go with pressure bleeding as recommended by the mechanics in Utah that maintain the cars for the Track Attack program.
 

JAJ

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More is not better as excessive pressure can damage the ABS module. 10-12 sounds like a good plan!
A couple of points:

Ford's recommended bleeding/flushing procedure is pressure bleeding. That's probably why they use it at the Track Attack venue.

The instructions, copied verbatim from the Service Manual are:

NOTE: Master cylinder pressure bleeder adapter tools are available from various manufacturers of pressure bleeding equipment. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer when installing the adapter.

Install the bleeder adapter to the brake master cylinder reservoir and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter.
Use the General Equipment: Brake/Clutch System Pressure Bleeder/Filler
NOTE: Make sure the bleeder tank contains enough clean, specified brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation.

Open the valve on the bleeder tank and apply 207-345 kPa (30-50 psi) to the brake system.

So, while 10-12 PSI sounds like a good plan, Ford themselves say 30 PSI minimum, 50 PSI max. Back in the days when I did pressure bleeding (before that unfortunate incident when the pressure hose fitting came off and drenched my garage, my car and me with brake fluid) I used 20 to 30 PSI.
 

gww52

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I've been using a Mity-Vac for years.
I use the brake bleeder attachment from them also.
Makes for an absolutely clean job start to finish.
It even pulls all of the fluid from inside the bleeder screw.
I always start by pulling all of the fluid I can get out of the master cylinder and refill with new fluid.
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