mtb5020
Car RamRod
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2015
- Threads
- 21
- Messages
- 158
- Reaction score
- 38
- Location
- Mean Streets of Philly
- First Name
- Mike
- Vehicle(s)
- 2015 Mustang GT PP
- Thread starter
- #1
For the Holiday, the second install on my list was the diff lockout kit from BMR. (http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1569&superpro=0)
Initial impressions were good, although I wondered why the included bushings were so thin when I had seen the thicker bushings from Steeda on other Mustangs. The BMR kit can be seen below in the pictures.
Install was not as easy as one would think for installing 4 glorified washers (support pucks) and 6 bolts. This will take a couple of hours DIY, maybe a shop could get it done much quicker, but it is a bit tricky. In the provided instructions, they don't mention removing the exhaust, I had to, otherwise it would have been next to impossible to reach some of the bolts.
Steps
Lift car
Support IRS with jack
Remove exhaust, I have an MBRP exhaust, so I just removed the 4 rear hangers and the "axle-back" portion of the exhaust.
Remove 4 front support bolts from IRS
Remove 4 cradle bolts and front supports
Lower IRS enough to reach bolts
Remove bolts
Install BMR bolts, washers, and support pucks. (I used blue locktite)
Raise IRS and re-install cradle bolts and support
Re-install exhaust
While the above may sound straight forward and simple, there were a few tight spots. Namely, the (2) front bolts are tough to get to. I had to remove the exhaust to allow clearance to swing the ratchet here. As the bolt comes out, it will pinch the ratchet in place and won't allow removal. So I had to remove the ratchet and loosen the last few turns by hand (luckily it wasn't too tight). Even tougher is when the kit is installed, 4 bolts replace the original 2, one from the front and one from the rear. The front most bolt is short and has the support puck on it. Getting this set up in requires moving around the subframe to gain clearance. Both for install and even more so to tighten and torque the bolt. After installing all of the BMR equipment, I used the Steeda alignment kit to get the IRS back up and connected to the car with minimal movement. Still needed an alignment, but it wasn't too bad, would have been fine on the roads and normal driving.
In addition to this kit, I also installed the BMR vertical links. With these two, the car puts down power in a much more controlled manner. Around corners and in a straight line, the car doesn't throw its headlights up in the air and go as crazy as before. I did a few hard accelerations as well, when the wheels were spinning and losing grip, the car didn't shutter as bad as before, felt smoother. This is a relative comparison because it was chilly out and the rears probably didn't have full grip potential. Either way, satisfied with the results. I'd say best improvement made so far is the diff pucks and at $50, unbeatable in $/return. If you pick up one of these kits, be ready to dedicate some time and patience to the install.
Pictures:
BMR diff kit components
Rearward bolt comparison, Stock vs BMR
Rear bolts, driver's side removed passenger side stock
Frontmost bolt location (Driver's side), it was difficult to even take a picture of the location, let alone get the bolt in. You can see the removed exhaust as well as clearance issues. This is with the IRS already substantially lowered, had to move the whole IRS towards the passenger side to get in the driver's side bolt and vice versa.
Passenger side front most bolt location. Easier to get to for me, not sure why or if the geometry is different on this side. Did passenger side first then had my buddy hang pull the IRS towards the passenger side to get the driver's side in.
Stock rearward passenger side stock bolt installed.
Initial impressions were good, although I wondered why the included bushings were so thin when I had seen the thicker bushings from Steeda on other Mustangs. The BMR kit can be seen below in the pictures.
Install was not as easy as one would think for installing 4 glorified washers (support pucks) and 6 bolts. This will take a couple of hours DIY, maybe a shop could get it done much quicker, but it is a bit tricky. In the provided instructions, they don't mention removing the exhaust, I had to, otherwise it would have been next to impossible to reach some of the bolts.
Steps
Lift car
Support IRS with jack
Remove exhaust, I have an MBRP exhaust, so I just removed the 4 rear hangers and the "axle-back" portion of the exhaust.
Remove 4 front support bolts from IRS
Remove 4 cradle bolts and front supports
Lower IRS enough to reach bolts
Remove bolts
Install BMR bolts, washers, and support pucks. (I used blue locktite)
Raise IRS and re-install cradle bolts and support
Re-install exhaust
While the above may sound straight forward and simple, there were a few tight spots. Namely, the (2) front bolts are tough to get to. I had to remove the exhaust to allow clearance to swing the ratchet here. As the bolt comes out, it will pinch the ratchet in place and won't allow removal. So I had to remove the ratchet and loosen the last few turns by hand (luckily it wasn't too tight). Even tougher is when the kit is installed, 4 bolts replace the original 2, one from the front and one from the rear. The front most bolt is short and has the support puck on it. Getting this set up in requires moving around the subframe to gain clearance. Both for install and even more so to tighten and torque the bolt. After installing all of the BMR equipment, I used the Steeda alignment kit to get the IRS back up and connected to the car with minimal movement. Still needed an alignment, but it wasn't too bad, would have been fine on the roads and normal driving.
In addition to this kit, I also installed the BMR vertical links. With these two, the car puts down power in a much more controlled manner. Around corners and in a straight line, the car doesn't throw its headlights up in the air and go as crazy as before. I did a few hard accelerations as well, when the wheels were spinning and losing grip, the car didn't shutter as bad as before, felt smoother. This is a relative comparison because it was chilly out and the rears probably didn't have full grip potential. Either way, satisfied with the results. I'd say best improvement made so far is the diff pucks and at $50, unbeatable in $/return. If you pick up one of these kits, be ready to dedicate some time and patience to the install.
Pictures:
BMR diff kit components
Rearward bolt comparison, Stock vs BMR
Rear bolts, driver's side removed passenger side stock
Frontmost bolt location (Driver's side), it was difficult to even take a picture of the location, let alone get the bolt in. You can see the removed exhaust as well as clearance issues. This is with the IRS already substantially lowered, had to move the whole IRS towards the passenger side to get in the driver's side bolt and vice versa.
Passenger side front most bolt location. Easier to get to for me, not sure why or if the geometry is different on this side. Did passenger side first then had my buddy hang pull the IRS towards the passenger side to get the driver's side in.
Stock rearward passenger side stock bolt installed.
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