Attaching Tow Bar 2019 GT

[The_Don_72]

Anyone done this, and were there any issues? I'm looking to install a tow bar so I can attach a bike carrying rack on the back.

Thanks

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[Bikeman315]

Anyone done this, and were there any issues? I'm looking to install a tow bar so I can attach a bike carrying rack on the back.

Thanks

Hi Don, there was a thread on this just within the past few weeks. Trying to find it.

 

[Bikeman315]

Hi Don, there was a thread on this just within the past few weeks. Trying to find it.

Here you go.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stealth-hitch.98799/page-11#post-2913328

 

[The_Don_72]

Thanks. I did a query search but it didn't pick anything up. Cheers

 

[Elp_jc]

Are you referring to a hitch? I'm looking into that myself. If you don't have active exhaust nor magneride, I'd get the Curt C11405. There's conflicting info if it fits with those 2 options, of which the most problematic one is AE. I'm sure I can install it on my Bullitt now... BUT might have to alter the brackets holding the wire harness for the AE valves. Plus the exhaust has to be removed from the resonator back. It can be damaged if lowered as much as it needs to be. Plus it'd still be on the way. I'll take the opportunity to paint the stupid mufflers black, which look like crap now from behind. And also to cut the useless piece of the aforementioned brackets easier. And to be able to use larger holes further back on the car to feed the hardware without having to widen any holes; can't do that with the exhaust in place. But it's an extra step that surely will need 2 people, and add time to the project.

 

[The_Don_72]

Yes I do have AE. Sounds like Mustangs weren't designed for a tow bar lol

 

[spaz mk will]

I’ve put a tow hitch on my 2018 with active exhaust. Caused some extra pain at install but it’s doable and worked out fine. I’ll look up the parts list today. I also have a bunch of photos. Maybe this will push me to write up my install

 

[spaz mk will]

Here’s what I installed minus ball, lock pin, etc. I use this to pull a small harbor freight 4x8 trailer for random errands.

Summary of install:

• Doable on jack stands with a floor jack to help raise the hitch
• Doable alone but a PITA to align everything and took longer than it should have
• I dropped the exhaust from both sets of rear hangers, did not remove. Supported with other jack stands on their sides.
• You will have to bend your AE brackets With some needle nose slightly to get everything to fit. It’s snug in there, but no real modifications needed
• Wiring harness could use a little more slack in the trunk but works. Basically one specific orientation and mounting position that fit.
  
• You can run the 12VDC wire from the battery in an OEM-like way if you follow some other wiring and have the patience.
• Got the larger draw bar for clearance away from the vehicle and to rise enough since the hitch is low

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Ford/Mustang/2018/C11405.html?VehicleID=201832354

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit...ustang/2018/C56088.html?VehicleID=20181172291

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Curt/C45014.html

 

[Elp_jc]

Hey Spaz, that's exactly what I have on my list, so good to get confirmation of the wire harness and drawbar. Etrailer recommends a draw-bar with only 3-1/8 rise, which is too little. The 5" rise brings the top of the ball to about 17", which is the minimum height recommended.

Have a question for you Spaz: According to my unscientific calculations, the problem with the AE bracket is the unused portion of the bracket that points to the front of the car. The harness is attached to the rear portion, so I plan to cut off the rear portion (with a hole in it, to install a harness holder). Was that your experience? And as a side comment, those brackets have quite a bit of rotation adjustment. In fact, I already adjusted both on my car rearward, giving the harness more clearance from the valves and muffler. That alone might bring enough clearance to not even have to cut the brackets like I explained above, but I want the maximum clearance possible (for obvious reasons). But yes, for that you need to remove the exhaust, which I plan to do for another job: painting the mufflers with flat black paint; they look like crap from behind now. Should look much better. And without the exhaust on the way, installation should be easier and better IMO. Hope to summon help, but if not, plan to clamp a long piece of 2x6 to the floor jack, then put straps on both mufflers to the lumber, and do the job alone. Once it's loose at the rear, would unclamp the resonator, try to push back the pipes from the resonator, then put them on the floor, over a towel. Then just pull the whole shebang back with the jack. We'll see how it goes .

As a side comment, I didn't like not seeing a flexible piece on the left side of the exhaust; there's a little one only on the right. With the amount that you have to drop the exhaust to clear the AE brackets and stuff, I fear damage to the exhaust, so not worth doing it that way IMO. On cars without AE, maybe. But to me that is not a consideration on my car.

 

[The_Don_72]

I read somewhere that your car can't be lowered, is that correct? My car has the Ford Performance springs which lower it about 1" (2.5cm).

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