Alignment Results

[Black]

I took my car for alignment after installing Steeda Progressives. The guy tells me I need to drill the camber holes in a oblong fashion or have camber bolts.

Anyone else faced the same issue after installing the lowering springs?

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[free]

Go somewhere else. Steeda Progressives are a very mild drop, when I installed mine I got an alignment to be safe, but the guy and the sheet showed there was no need. I'm on Eibach sportlines now which are much lower than the progressives and the shop got my alignment perfect with no camber bolts or plates or anything else.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I took my car for alignment after installing Steeda Progressives. The guy tells me I need to drill the camber holes in a oblong fashion or have camber bolts.

Anyone else faced the same issue after installing the lowering springs?

That shouldn't be the case the drop is 1" so its mild in consideration to other drop rates.

a 1" drop shouldn't need any camber bolts at all.

 

[Black]

So they should be able to adjust it without the bolts?

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

So they should be able to adjust it without the bolts?

Correct this is the first time im hearing someone say you need camber bolts to adjust for a 1" standard drop.

 

[Black]

Okay, thanks!

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

Okay, thanks!

Your welcome.

Try and find a shop that aligns lowered vehicles if you haven't yet.

 

[RYAN97812]

Well I just installed Streeda progressives and I'm a 20 ASE cert master tech doing alignments on the newest Hunter machine and I can tell you I needed camber bolts for mine

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

Well I just installed Streeda progressives and I'm a 20 ASE cert master tech doing alignments on the newest Hunter machine and I can tell you I needed camber bolts for mine

really? what were your specs im curious to know brotha? All the lowering we have done camber bolts were never even mentioned by any of the alignment shops that did them.

Hawkeye Elite system?

 

[RYAN97812]

I have the sheets at work on my tool box. I will have to look on Monday. My car has roughly 3/4" gap on the front and rears are damn near flush on the rears. I did complete suspension while I installed the springs and have all spherical ends now and no bushings except upper camber arm. I believe this and the fact that all bolts were torqued at ride height may be why my rear is lower then what I see on everyone elses cars. I maxed my rear camber adjustment to see how much I could get close to 0 degree since I'm looking to drag race the car, I know I was only able to get -1.3 on left rear and -0.7 on right rear. I ordered spring spacers to correct ride height and will recheck rear camber. I want to say I had -1.9 and -1.8 or -2.0 degrees in the front before the camber bolts and with them I set them to -0.8 on each

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

I have the sheets at work on my tool box. I will have to look on Monday. My car has roughly 3/4" gap on the front and rears are damn near flush on the rears. I did complete suspension while I installed the springs and have all spherical ends now and no bushings except upper camber arm. I believe this and the fact that all bolts were torqued at ride height may be why my rear is lower then what I see on everyone elses cars. I maxed my rear camber adjustment to see how much I could get close to 0 degree since I'm looking to drag race the car, I know I was only able to get -1.3 on left rear and -0.7 on right rear. I ordered spring spacers to correct ride height and will recheck rear camber. I want to say I had -1.9 and -1.8 or -2.0 degrees in the front before the camber bolts and with them I set them to -0.8 on each

That's Hats some intense stuff haha, keep us posted

 

[Norm Peterson]

I took my car for alignment after installing Steeda Progressives. The guy tells me I need to drill the camber holes in a oblong fashion or have camber bolts.

That sheet is not for an S550. 2012 - 2014 is an S197, and I think the specs are slightly different.

Whether camber correction is necessary depends on how hard you need the guy to hit the factory preferred spec in the middle of the range or if it's OK to let it run a little more negative than that. Generally, running front cambers a little more negative than factory preferred when lowered is a good thing for at least one geometric reason, emphasis as shown.


Norm

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

That sheet is not for an S550. 2012 - 2014 is an S197, and I think the specs are slightly different.

Whether camber correction is necessary depends on how hard you need the guy to hit the factory preferred spec in the middle of the range or if it's OK to let it run a little more negative than that. Generally, running front cambers a little more negative than factory preferred when lowered is a good thing for at least one geometric reason, emphasis as shown.


Norm

Norm knows his stuff hands down ! Every time he states something I myself am learning.

Take his words into deep consideration

 

[VinnAY]

That sheet is not for an S550. 2012 - 2014 is an S197, and I think the specs are slightly different.

Whether camber correction is necessary depends on how hard you need the guy to hit the factory preferred spec in the middle of the range or if it's OK to let it run a little more negative than that. Generally, running front cambers a little more negative than factory preferred when lowered is a good thing for at least one geometric reason, emphasis as shown.


Norm

exactly what I noticed too

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

exactly what I noticed too

I must have been spacing out I just noticed what Norm was stating, feeling kinda stupid at the moment.

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