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TUNE+: Drag Build *Updated 1/14/16* Steeda Engine Mounts / Viking Shocks

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Alright, sorry for the gap in updates. Here are a few updates to the build I did about 3 weeks ago. I just got around to editing the pictures and loading them up.


David from Steeda reached out to me to see if I need anything for the build. By the time I got the email I already had most of my suspension stuff covered so I didn't have too much I needed without adding any additional weight. I did however need a set of their engine mounts.

David sent me over a set of their Steeda Adjustable Heavy Duty S550 Engine Mounts (Part number 555-4038) (Purchase here) for my car as I knew the factory mounts were heavy, and vacuum assisted. With their upgrade not only would it transfer torque as it should in a race car it would also allow me to delete the factory vacuum assisted engine mount system. This was good for 8lbs total, not much but it is something. Not to mention it cleans up the engine bay pretty nicely.

Let's have a look at the mounts themselves compared to stock:

Steeda -



Steeda Vs Stock -



Stock, you can see the vacuum connection on the side here -



Weights -





Steeda Mount Installed -





Here is the factory vacuum pump for the stock mounts -



And where the assembly mounts in the engine bay -



I setup the mounts to be on their lowest setting which is 3/4" lower than stock. I don't really have a comparison picture but if you look at your engine bay compared to mine you can definitely see it sits MUCH lower in the engine bay.










After I finished up the mounts, I decided that I would flip the car around and install my Viking Crusader shocks that were sponsored to me by Juggernaut Power (www.juggernautpower.com) Shocks can be purchased here. Installation of the shocks was REALLY easy, took me about 10 minutes total. It actually took longer to take the wheels on and off than it did to put the shocks on.

Here are a few pictures -








I would like to thank David @ Steeda, and Jon / Rey @ Juggernaut Power for getting me these parts and being such great partners to work with on this build.

Next update will be my catch can and vertical link install from UPR (Courtesy of UPR and Juggernaut Power), driveshaft loop from BMR install, and possibly might have my Turbo kit and other parts in from Full-Race!
 

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When I saw ford using vacuum pump on the ecoboost, I "assumed" they mainly did it for lose of vacuum in brake booster (since its so easy to be into boost).
Any issue there with removing it ?

Nice pics, good stuff , I follow your progress .
 
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When I saw ford using vacuum pump on the ecoboost, I "assumed" they did it for lose of vacuum in brake booster (since its so easy to be into boost).
Any issue there with removing it ?
Not at all, no check engine lights or body codes. The pump is strictly for the engine mounts. The vacuum pump for the brake booster is actually on the back of the intake camshaft. You will see a line directly to the brake boost. It is tied into the vacuum pump for additional vacuum but it is unnecessary.
 

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Not at all, no check engine lights or body codes. The pump is strictly for the engine mounts. The vacuum pump for the brake booster is actually on the back of the intake camshaft. You will see a line directly to the brake boost. It is tied into the vacuum pump for additional vacuum but it is unnecessary.
Ah, my bad, that is what I thought you removed (one off cam) .
I see now , I breezed over the pump pic and didn't know that was all of it .

Did both side mounts have vacuum feature on stock , I was wondering how that works , how the load, unload the mount .
Probably similar to Honda V6 VCM mounts I guess .
 

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When I saw ford using vacuum pump on the ecoboost, I "assumed" they mainly did it for lose of vacuum in brake booster (since its so easy to be into boost).
Any issue there with removing it ?

Nice pics, good stuff , I follow your progress .
I've deleted it as well. I initially kept the line connected from manifold to brake booster, then deleted that as well as IIRC the check valves in place prevented the booster from ever getting manifold vacuum. I think the line from the booster to the mount vacuum solenoid was so the mounts could use the booster's vacuum pump as well, but I never really bothered to investigate it much further.

Either way, it's gone, no issues, no codes.:thumbsup:
 
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Ah, my bad, that is what I thought you removed (one off cam) .
I see now , I breezed over the pump pic and didn't know that was all of it .

Did both side mounts have vacuum feature on stock , I was wondering how that works , how the load, unload the mount .
Probably similar to Honda V6 VCM mounts I guess .
From my understanding the boost would actually fill up the mounts and when it came back into idle the engine rested on the rubber mounts. I'm not 100% sure because honestly if it worked off vacuum it wouldn't have any benefit because it would just be deflated all the time.
 

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I've deleted it as well. I initially kept the line connected from manifold to brake booster, then deleted that as well as IIRC the check valves in place prevented the booster from ever getting manifold vacuum. I think the line from the booster to the mount vacuum solenoid was so the mounts could use the booster's vacuum pump as well, but I never really bothered to investigate it much further.

Either way, it's gone, no issues, no codes.:thumbsup:
not sure i follow you, but if you got ride of line in back from vacuum pump to booster and only have a check valve line from booster to IM .
Be careful and test brakes well, the vacuum in the booster does get used up if you have to pump brakes a lot I would just be worried if that is what you did of hard brake pedal after long run of boost .
 

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From my understanding the boost would actually fill up the mounts and when it came back into idle the engine rested on the rubber mounts. I'm not 100% sure because honestly if it worked off vacuum it wouldn't have any benefit because it would just be deflated all the time.
Yeh, it seems odd to me ,I think they go overboard to try an get ride of anything 4 cylinder like , if you know what I mean .

I am surprised none tried damper from cross-member to engine mounts to hold engine down a bit . Of course in your case that would add to weight so stiffer mounts seem good path.
 

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not sure i follow you, but if you got ride of line in back from vacuum pump to booster and only have a check valve line from booster to IM .
Be careful and test brakes well, the vacuum in the booster does get used up if you have to pump brakes a lot I would just be worried if that is what you did of hard brake pedal after long run of boost .
No, line from pump to booster has a T that goes to the mounts. This y's with the manifold line (shown in Adam's pics). I initially connected the booster line to the manifold with the check valves in place in the same orientation and figured out that they don't allow air to pass so I capped the manifold and the T on the pump to booster. Pretty much exactly what Adam has done;)

Breaks work like a champ, cant even tell the crap is gone aside from the effects of the more solid mounts.
 

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No, line from pump to booster has a T that goes to the mounts. This y's with the manifold line (shown in Adam's pics). I initially connected the booster line to the manifold with the check valves in place in the same orientation and figured out that they don't allow air to pass so I capped the manifold and the T on the pump to booster. Pretty much exactly what Adam has done;)

Breaks work like a champ, cant even tell the crap is gone aside from the effects of the more solid mounts.
Ah, Ok good , I was just making sure .
Sounds good.
 

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So I have a couple questions about the motor mounts. Are you able to install them without a engine hoist, also is the any n/v/h difference with moving the motor down to the lowest point. I am also looking at these for the lowest point. Last question do you have to plug any of the lines after you pull off the pump
 
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So I have a couple questions about the motor mounts. Are you able to install them without a engine hoist, also is the any n/v/h difference with moving the motor down to the lowest point. I am also looking at these for the lowest point. Last question do you have to plug any of the lines after you pull off the pump
I don't have an engine hoist, so yes you can install them with just a jack. There is a ton of rattles after the install. They are completely solid mounts, the urethane is really not taking up too much of the vibration when the whole system is held together by billet blocks and a solid bolt. I don't mind the vibration, it tells me everything is solid and I like that.

You are disconnecting the whole pump assembly, so there isn't anything left to plug really except the line going from the cam driven vacuum pump to the brake booster there is a small T there you will have to plug or delete. I will be deleting it on mine and running a new vacuum line.
 

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Is it to much vibration for a weekend driver I guess is the question
 
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Is it to much vibration for a weekend driver I guess is the question
I don't mind it, it is all going to be up to the owner. I used to drive 500whp civic's with solid billet engine mounts, same with my EVO's. So, my perspective is jaded.
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