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resetting the bms did not work. I’ve had the kit on for about 30k.

Hey, I have a 2018 GT with a single turbo kit. For a while now I have had sporadic voltage changes. Varying between 14.9V-16.2V. Decided to replace the battery and alternator. Cleared the codes. Voltage seems much more stable but is still staying at 15.1V and I’m getting both codes still...

Oh sweet thanks man, I’ve seen a little bit about the check valve but never where to install it. That link for his video isn’t pulling anything up.

that was removed for weight, along with many other things. If that wasn’t removed correctly, think that’s my issue? Everyone I spoke to and asked about it said they just pulled theirs out.

plus my car has no exhaust coming out of the back so I’d remove the driveshaft, remove the connections to the tank and drop it. Shouldn’t be too terrible.

I’ve used the access on the driver side everytime, but many people have told me you can’t access the inside of the tank on the passenger side so I’ve never even tried. Those rubber grommets are a pain to get back in.

I’m using PTFE Braided line for my fuel lines. That’s the only supplier close yes. I will end up dropping the tank to check it out regardless.

no contaminants on the driver side of the tank, I can’t see the passenger side given it’s a saddle tank. No fuel additives. And I always get E85 from the same company, not necessarily the same station but it’s always SPINX.

They are

I could, but im curious to know what’s possibly deteriorating to replace it now rather than well, it’s too late

2018 turbo car here, running sai li return style system, radium billet fuel hat, dual walboro hellcat pumps. I have had electrical issues non stop with this setup from sai li, until I replaced it all myself with my own stuff. Battery all the way back. Doing so I’ve had to pull the pumps out...

So I bought a 2018 Mustang GT a while back and it has the CPR single turbo kit with a BorgWarner turbo. I was told it’s an 80/90mm turbo and I know on BW turbos there is supposed to be a tag but there is not. I’ve been told 3 different turbo sizes and was wondering if any of you guys could help...

That makes me feel much better

Preciate you guys for the help

It’s a stock motor and trans car for now but it’s a single turbo car and i have settings for a little over 1k but it rarely sees that, i normally keep it down on like 10psi. Makes 0 noises no squeaks or any smoke.

Yes, the car makes around 1000whp so if there are any signs of damage due to the heat i’m sure they’d show faster on a boosted car than a stock one, i would just rather avoid getting stranded and replacing it now if need be. I’ll change everything out, do a compression test or leak down test and...

Definitely will be changing the oil and looking through that.

No noises and runs perfect, i’ll change everything and do that, i checked the Ngauge for codes and ECT too hot was on and that was about the only one, i’ll check at home the temp.

I do not know for sure the exact temp but the ECT gauge was maxed out when i turned the car off, it was stuck in the mud, like i was saying it couldn’t have been up there that hot long because it was sitting and completely cooled off. It was driven probably 35 yards and turned off.

So recently I got into an accident and hit a deer and I slid my car off into a field, well the radiator busted of course but I ended up having to drive it out of the field to get it on the roll back. The car was completely cooled off when I started it and it probably had a run time of max 2-3...