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That’s pretty much true for all cats, they just don’t hold up well to boost over time. The green cats are supposed to be better for boost, but I’ve seen those fail on people too. The best is catless for boost, or else you may just have to be willing to spend extra money to replace green cats...

From what I recall when I was researching headers a year ago, I was seeing Texas Speed headers are cheaper because they’re made in China and I saw many cases of fitment issues with them. Kind of a “you get what you pay for” situation, so I think it’s the right choice for you to just go with...

To be fair, MP can just look like black in a lot of situations (although I do like the color and it’s definitely unique for the Mustang). FJG is a color that’s available on other Ford models, but on the Mustang it was only available on the Mach 1 so it’s still instantly recognizable to those who...

I used to have an LVA splitter on my other Mustang and I was happy with it. The rods should be adjustable, you just have to loosen the nut on the end and turn the rod to extend it, at least that’s how mine were. It definitely had enough adjustability to make it as long as needed.

Regarding the emissions part of your post, as Coastal Mach said, the removed carbon filter is unlikely to be your issue. My initial thought is that they did the recall update, which is an update to the computer. Not sure exactly how that system works, but from past experience I know with...

I have a Mach 1 with an H-pipe and catted headers, so pretty similar to what you’re considering. Before the headers, I used to put the exhaust in track mode every time because it had the sound I wanted, and after the headers I pretty much always have it in normal and it’s still louder than it...

Engine wise it’s pretty much stock. But they did several suspension mods, roll cage, etc. It had been listed on the FPRS website, but may not be there anymore. Also I know you’re just making a joke (although I agree with you on the manual), but this is a 2015 so would’ve had the A6 were it an auto.

I’m now 99% sure this is a bad battery issue. Going to test with a multimeter in a bit, maybe try to add some water and hook up a battery tender over night and see if that does anything, but more than likely it needs a new one. Now the question is whether to go to Ford and get a replacement...

Further info. This morning got in my car to go to work, and out of curiosity checked the voltage on the screen in accessory mode before starting the car, and it showed 11.5 V. Drove to work and nothing weird happened like yesterday, but the whole drive it showed at exactly 14.5 V. Forgot to...

Interesting. I don't get how these batteries seem to commonly have such short lives. Did yours actually die, as in it no longer supplied enough power to even start your car? Or were you experiencing weird electrical things or messages saying certain systems were disabled?

Ok yeah that makes sense. It has been very humid the past few days here between the snow and then the rain on top of that which caused a lot of fog with melting snow. With what I’ve been reading online it seems if any moisture gets through to the MAF it can be very sensitive and cause a code...

Yeah I thought that may be the case, kind of why I’m leaning towards it being the battery. Like last week I had gone to dinner after a long drive (probably over 1.5 hrs). Then after dinner get in the car and that message was there right away, which doesn’t seem normal. I will try disconnecting...

Hi guys. Haven’t had any issues with my car until this morning. I got it in October 2022, so a little over a year ago, and it has a bit over 10k miles now, as it’s my daily. Not sure if it’s relevant, but this past weekend I had to drive home in a decent amount of snow, and yesterday I drove...

I faced the same issue a couple years ago, albeit it was with an ecoboost. I had similar mods that led to this same problem, catted downpipe, CAI, tune, etc. When I first installed the downpipe, I had no tune and put the O2 sensors on like normal, which was fine for a while but eventually got a...

I guess they didn’t ask you what you were doing when it failed, and if they did I’m surprised they would warranty that lol.

Yeah that’s pretty normal. It used to be worse for me because I’m in the habit of parking with the parking brake engaged, of course, but I’ve started to not use it right after I’ve washed. I’m sure you’ve noticed that after washing, the rotors and everything have a good amount of surface rust...

I’m no expert with this stuff, but if you’re bogging and the tires aren’t spinning, I don’t see why the solution would be to launch at even lower RPM. I would think you’d want to keeping raising it and see what happens as far as getting better times, as long as you still aren’t spinning.

I’ll also note, while many with GT’s and AE are happy with X/H-pipe resonator deletes as well, I have seen more people complaining that the sound ends up more tinny or metallic sounding and not as deep when compared to people who do the same mod on the Mach 1 AE. Not sure if any of those people...

Wow you guys are all too old! Haha just kidding, but exhaust sound is all super subjective. I was happy with the stock Mach 1 exhaust, and still would be if I had left it alone, but that doesn’t mean I wouldn’t also be happy with changing things. First went to an H-pipe, and again was very happy...

True, most things are done to cut costs and I’m assuming that’s what happened here. But what’s interesting is the Pirelli Trofeo RS looks to be about $100 more per tire than the Michelin Sport Cup 2. I know that’s pricing for the consumer and I’m sure a deal was worked out to use them on the DH.