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Is that alignment sheet what it was at when it went in or after an alignment? If that is after an alignment it is irrelevant to how your tires wore before the alignment was done.

Yes, This is very common. If it goes away after a short drive it should not be an issue.

I agree with binding in the clutch somewhere. I actually grenaded my clutch and friction material got wedged in everywhere. the clutch pedal wouldn't return but the clutch stayed engaged. I had to revmatch for the hour drive home.

I will not ever ride with on a test drive. I don't trust my life in a strangers hands. If someone is serious about buying it I want them to run the car through the gears. If I ever test drive a vehicle I will also run the car hard to make sure there is no weird noises or issues. If I cannot do...

Yes they were a rebranded Falken but no they are not currently available. I'm a big fan of those for the price and I've run a handful of HPDE with them. They may not be the "best" but they are very predictable on and off the track.

I would check the tires for any damage(or extreme wear). A cord coming apart can give lumps that can cause that.

I’m running the ohtsu tires that LMR would sell on their wheels. I’m happy enough with those on the street that it’s my second set but they’ve been discontinued. For the suspension I have Steeda pro action dampers with Steeda dual rate ultimate handling springs.

So far so good. I haven't had any structural issues. My only complaint still is the paint. The have a few rock chips but that also happened with my sv2 wheels.

Avoiding any chips and scuff can be very difficult. The newer tire machines with the extra arm to push on the sidewall can really help but it can still be a little tricky. I've come to accept that my wheels are more of a wear item. eventually they'll need refinishing from normal use. I agree...

You'll get the hang of it. I've accidentally damaged a few over the years. The nice thing is you now have 3 extras if it happens again. I've actually had better luck with the cheap sensors working vs the replacement ford sensors I've purchased.

I haven't done it with this car but I had to pull my bumper cover to get my 01 onto my dolly. That short of distance wont hurt anything.

Copart always has the estimated value at what excellent retail would be. They also don't figure in for the salvage title(which it probably has now). It doesn't look like major damage but I would guess at least 10K into repairs. If you are going to bid, check out the fees. As the prices go up...

Since it was a commercial vehicle that hit you I would recommend talking to a lawyer. I drove a 3/4 ton pickup for work for 14 years and the big concern at our company was accidents. Even if we got hit by someone, a lot of times they would sue our company. The company usually wants to payout and...

If you have Ryobi and like them, I'd say stick with them. Having said that I've used the new Milwaukee Fuel and Dewalt Atomic at work. I like both of those and they are good quality. About a year ago I needed to replace my old Dewalt 18v set at home. I decided to give the Hercules line from...

I have a 63 meteor, 85 monte SS and my 2015 GT. The big question is what do you want out of the car. My meteor is a 2 speed so it is a great in town cruiser. I enjoy cruising it to local shows and around to small towns. It's no fun on long drives or hot weather. I have rebuilt the engine and...

You'll be fine. I've been running that in my car for a while now. Some track time using it and no issues.

A pad swap wont fix a vibration. A warped rotor will. If your pads are new you could replace the rotors but if your pads are worn a bit I'd replace pads and rotors. I'd start with only the front and then do the rears if needed.

I have not installed long tube headers but did you need to remove the steering shaft? If so did you make sure the steering wheel can't turn while it was disconnected? If the steering wheel spun freely it could of damaged the clock spring. All the functions you have run through it.

I would recommend something like Spraymax 2k clear coat. It's not the cheapest but as far as rattle cans go it can give a nice top coat. I used it on a custom painted helmet.

Most of my cleaning that I need to do is just cleaning the dust off from regular driving. I'll just use the carpro reset when I wash it and one of the Si02Drying aid detailers. If I'm just cleaning the dust off from sitting in my garage is it best to just wipe it with the ceramic detailers?