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Hey sorry I forgot to post back on here it sold a little over a month ago!

Have my 2016 up for sale, pretty common but proven build. I did not see any rules against posting links to my ad and since I am on my phone figured it would be easier to just link it over where everything is already established. I have it on fleabay. The parts have literally been on the car 800...

Now moving on, what kind of wrench did you all use to get that back pick up Bolt? I have stubby and long ratcheting wrenches as well as regular none of them can really grab it I think I'm going to make a run to Harbor Freight and get a set of offset unless there's something better to get it?

i got the write up on SVTP but its on a 2014, same but slightly different.. I think I just saw that first and freaked out before moving on.. we're good now.. now for the pickup bolt uhggg

thanks for the quick reply, diving in.....

yepp... crisis averted, just have to get it right... 8 rib and blower are going on with the reinstall so the next fire up will be after EVERYTHING is back on, really don;t want to have to do it twice... Coming from LS motors, just want to have everything go smooth

after turning it more... seems the blue links are always changing while the proper marks fall in sync, i believe...

so we are good to go pulling them even though they do not now?..stupid they dont mention it in the Ford manual.. it makes me nervous..

actually i dont know how far off the LH side is until i turn to 5 o clock and look but I dont want to go any further until I have an explanation for the RH

OK I am in the middle of this and just about to remove the RH timing chain. I have a ford manual and I know the blue links are supposed to line with the cam sprocket marks... sooo Why is mine like this about 2 teeth off and totally off on the left side. RH matrix is straight up... keyway is...

Yeah I am debating the reinstall everything then restart, BUT I have an 8 rib kit to swap on as well so once I get that balancer on and most of the rest of the pulleys , the blower pretty much has to go on, saving a bunch of time just going right into the blower with 1/3 or more of the work...

Just installed mine this past weekend Fore level 4. Had to get a little creative with the fittings but made them work... pics on my build page https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94693&page=2

well got home early from a work trip today so figure hell, I will at least get started on the converter.. total time 3.5 hrs but lucky to have a lift and the transmission jack was a huge help.... also got the driveshaft all of the way out and removed the 02 sensors to have a little more room...

Well after a solid month of being busy or super cold snaps happening on weekends where my heat in the shop can't keep up, I finally got around to installing the Fore level 4 fuel system. Echoed in other threads and reviews, their stuff is definitely top notch. I should have went with black...

Yep, brain fart moment, im usually good about that stuff, ill remember it for next time!

No issue on Lund's end, they put me in touch with the Emotion (makers of ngauge). first troubleshooting item, tiny bent plastic guide on ethernet connector.. yep 2 bent pins , 30 seconds with a razorblade and we are in business, all connects well.. moral of the story, be very careful when...

I know right... I was reading some others had issues with the axles as well maybe it's because the car only has 3K miles on it who knows everything still may be super tight. But with that slide hammer and three hits came right out. Got those wrapped up now have an email into Lund to see what...

Got some of the stuff installed myself yesterday.. Decided to do Axles, rear portion of the BMR drag springs and Viking Warrior shocks all at once. Went pretty smooth except the almost 2 hours fighting to get the d/s axle out with pry bars. Would not budge. Had amoment of clarity, went to...

The passenger side seal is fine since I used the slide hammer on that axle. The driver side the inner rib portion of the seal that the axle rides against is okay, just the outer part that kind of surrounds the edge is flattened down from all the pry bar use. Took it for about a 10 mile drive and...

Voltage is at the Port as it powers on the tuner. All fuses good including cigarette lighter and all PCM fuses. Trying to connect to the car in any Fashion on the tuner just keep saying cannot connect to vehicle error 22. Wire seem to be all pushed in the Factory Connection fine, any insight...