Hey guys. Hope this is the correct place to post this. 2016 PP gt with BBK LT, intake, full cbe, and Lund racing tune. I was rejected at emissions because almost all of the system monitors came up as “not supported” and also fuel system monitor came up “not ready”. Only 2 that showed “ready”...
broke left half shaft and broke spider gears. Ordered 350 shafts, and torsen diff. Shop installed both (good friend of mine) and the bill was $1350. Kinda feel like it shouldn’t be near this, especially when I bought the parts. Opinions please.
I really feel like an idiot, but i cannot get the shift pattern aligned. Screwed in the nut, tried adjusting it, but no matter what I do, shift pattern is upside down. Can anyone help? Thanks
Selling my performance pack wheels wrapped in the stock pirelli p zeros. Front are 255/4019. Rear are 275/40/19. 8,500 miles. Absolute perfect condition. No dings, dents, scratches, curb rash....none of that. Located 30 miles south of Chicago. Asking for $850.
So I just picked these up. I’m asking for opinions please, cuz I’m debating on doing white lettering (car is oxford white with gloss black niche verona wheels. Got the whole black/white storm trooper look going lol)
1). Leave the tires the way they are
2). White letter NITTO only
3)...
So I already have a 93 oct tune from Lund. I will be adding BBK long tube headers with catted midpipes. Lund said i do bot need a tune revision, that I just need to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 mins then I’m good to go. Can anyone give me some input on this? Thanks
So, my car is hibernating for the winter, and I’m gathering up parts. So far, I have borla s-type cbe, JLT CAI, and a lund 93 tune. Come springtime, i will be installing pypes catted LT headers, DSS carbon fiber one piece shaft, BBK 85mm TB, exedy clutch and lw flywheel. How much fun will I...
So, for my 2016 GT PP, I am looking at getting a staggered setup.
Front rims 20x9
Rear rims 20x10
The tires it matched up for me was
front 255/35/20
rear 275/30/20
I am not a pro at tires at all, so my question is why would the ratio be different? Please help me out. Thanks.
Guys/Gals......I've searched, and searched, and have messaged vendors, but I still don't know. I don't know a lot about clutches.....i never go to the track, and the mods in my sig are probably the most I'll do (MAYBE catted headers). I'm more of a show kinda guy, but still wanna romp on it...
So I got the notice today. I'm in a dilemma cuz wife has to use her car tomorrow and it just so happens it's my Saturday to work. I have to drive to downtown Chicago (30 miles expressway). I drive mostly normal lol, so would I be risking anything if i drove to work, then to jiffy lube afterwards?
I know this is a dumb question for most of you. I've never had a car with a strut bar before. I'm going to install a painted engine cover, so is there anything tricky about removing the strut bar? Is it as easy as unbolting, removing bar, then reinstalling? Do The bolts need to be torqued when...
Saw this also on AM's website, but they're sold out. Anyone have this? Does it even do anything?
http://granatellimotorsports.com/products/2015_2016_Ford_5_0L_Cold_Air_Calibrated_Slot_Style_Mass_Air_Sensor-2525-0.html
As title says, when i shift gears, i feel a clunk. When I'm at a standstill, press in the clutch and put in first gear, i feel and hear a clunk. But when I put it in gear very slowly, nothing. Any ideas? Only mods i have are JLT CAI and tune. Also have the PP with 3.73 gear