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Here is an updated time slip same mods.

I actually have run a 0-60 in 1.9 seconds. But not on the street, it took a 1.3 60 ft and 1000 or so horsepower. Launching on the trans brake on Et street r’s17”. No way I could do that on the street. At least not any street I’ve driven on before, for that matter only on a good prepped track.

It has bmr rear suspension parts(most available) with bmr springs and Viking rear shocks, also has aluminum driveshaft and 1400hp axles. I did have a 1.32 60’ before this pass. Can’t wait to turn it up some more and drop some weight to see what it will be capable of.

Boostworks twin kit 6266 Comp turbos, triple 465 pumps, ID1700’s, forged motor, 18’ intake, eb2, 6r80, circle d 3b,transbrake with Lund doing the tuning on e85. On et street r 17”. Pass was made 8.2.19 at SGMP in Georgia with 2100 da. Full street car with heated and cooled seats 3900lbs!!!

Does any one know what will need to be changed or acquired to install a 2011 gen 1 shortblock into a 16' mustang? The gen 2 adapter has coolant lines for the oil cooler gen1 does not. Can you just bolt on the gen1 adapter and not hook up the cooler? any one done this yet, any suggestions?

It’s not a bad idea but I already have the built short block sitting here ready to go. If I was going to build it from scratch I would’ve definitely sleeved the engine. I traded some stuff I had lying around for this engine, didn’t plan on installing or building one before running into this...

I traded out for the new short block already completed. If I was to sleeve it the rods and pistons would be of no use and all machine work currently done is wasted. It is close to starting over. Sounds like I might just have to cut it back to 1100whp and let it eat at that level.

I’m not familiar with water jacket supports, who makes them? Thanks

Ok let’s say 1100whp. What would you recommend? Thanks for the response do you by any chance know what part number for the springs?

There are many people pushing over 1000whp with unsleeved blocks. It is not pointless to still talk about other aspects of the build. I understand that will be the holdup but I already know that looking for info on the remaining questions.

So I have decided to do some upgrades and ran into a new forged short block. It has Manley forged h-beam rods, Manley pistons(10.5 to 1) and arp studs everywhere, it is a 12mm head bolt engine which I also have studs for. Goal 1200-1300whp already have billet oil pump gears and crankshaft...

My circle d converter (3b) actually showed up the same day this happened. Haven’t heard much about the converters having issues. I guess an intermediate shaft and clutches are going in as well since it’s out and apart. Anything else that is needed at the 900ish wheel horsepower range?

I was driving home from work, just got my new 555r’s on the car and decided to open it up car downshifted into second was making about 10lbs of boost tires spun just a little and then boom!!! Car stops pulling. I coast to a stop and I have no forward or reverse only grinding noise. Towed home...

I have a Boostworks kit and have driven in very hard rain even deep water and never had any issues. It is truly a none issue.

Why are you selling the kit?

Travis when are you shipping those bad boys??? I'm ready To turn this thing up!!!

Travis is sending me out the meth injection kit. As soon as I get it and install and retest I will post the results and let everyone know how well it works. I already have cut out my grille and Lund says not to tune for the meth injection, pcm will correct for iat temps and then if system runs...

Pm me we can get together.

I have one of the first kits and my iat is in the maf sensor about 6-8 inches from the throttle body. I have the 62mm Comp oil less turbos.

If I didn’t already have a fmic either meth injection or a water to air intercooler would not be a bandaid but when you have a fmic that should be adequate to handle 20psi of boost as many other kits/ systems do on the same platform than adding meth injection or another form of charge air...