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Almost anything else will ride better than BC coilvers (except for even cheaper coilovers). Those are not really meant for performance or ride quality, just for lowering purposes. I would personally go with a pair of Ford springs (whether X or Y depending on how stiff you want the ride).

What lip is that on your front bumper?

Did it really end up costing $13k for a replacement longblock?

Can you share what Mass dealer that was? You can PM me if you don't want to out them publicly but I'd love to know.

Search on here for FR track dampers with the FR X springs (which are essentially the PP springs). Several people have tried that combination.

The Y springs are basically the same as the OEM non-R 350 springs, in the same way the FR track dampers are the same as the OEM non-magride dampers. So that's why those are a good combination together and a good improvement over the stock PP stuff.

You can certainly run the PP springs with those dampers, but I would change those out to the track springs which are better matched. You're already doing all that work, no sense in putting back in stock 10 year old springs. I don't expect the ride quality to get any worse, especially given the...

You should be able to, 1 in the trunk and 3 in the back seat. That leaves you some room in the trunk and front seat for gear.

I do those quite often, and have a buddy with a truck and trailer that has some room also. Where are you located? You should definitely try out the night shifts at Thompson, pretty wild the first time you drive at night under the lights. TBH though, I stopped bringing alot of that crap to...

Does what again? The current Generation small block has been around since 2014 so it's been a long time coming. The only thing I see them doing again is re-using naming concept, going back to the LS structure with the LS6. That's cool to see competition, which hopefully pushes Ford to do a...

That's literally what happened to me, just about a year in started leaking. One call to Mishi and they had a replacement sent out immediately so that was a positive. I didn't actually intend to move on from them, but I had an event that weekend and didn't want any downtime so I used my buddies...

I went from a leaky Mishimoto to a stock PP rad (same as the GT350) and noticed virtually no difference in temps on track. The OEM unit is pretty good, it just needs airflow both in and out. An open grill delete did wonders for my temps, then coupled with a vented hood virtually solved all of...

Depends on the driving you do. I don't know many people that go to the dragstrip with the stock 235s on the rear and meaty 305s on the front.

I'd get the stud kit instead of the bolt...

That's why engine builders use assembly lube, so that at first startup the metal parts don't grind on eachother before oil pressure has a chance to build.

It can and often does. For example, a brand new car has 3/36 bumper to bumper and a 5/60 powertrain warranty. When installing an FP part, your powertrain is covered by a new and separate 3/36 warranty. But at the end of that 3/36, you are left with nothing because the FP warranty is over and...

Ford Motor Company itself defines Ford Performance as aftermarket, not me. And it's not "factory warranty"...that gets eliminated the day you install it. It simply gets replaced by a warranty from Ford Performance.

I'd be curious to see the damage if this was a rusted out steel body truck. I went out to my 2011 F150 the other day and literally put my finger through the frame and many of the lower body panels behind the door. Can't imagine that offers much safety when being t-boned.

Priming works, but not by cranking the engine. It doesn't spin fast enough to get oil up to the heads. Now you could prime it manually by inserting an oil line into the side of the block and using air pressure to push oil through the galleries. I've seen people do that with a hand pump sprayer.

Why do you need to do that? This isn't the olden days...just put your foot on the brake and hit the start button.