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I bought the odyssey 96r for my 2017 this summer. It recently sat for 2wks and then was flatlined when I needed to take it to get tires done. Charged it back up on the trickle charger and my tester still says it's dead. Car won't run for 5min on accessory mode playing a song before it shuts...

nope. they dropped right in. I have a 17 though. not sure if it's different on 18+

can't recommend this enough. i used lund the first go around and am on Wengerd now.

can we get a short 'action' video of what it looks like in operation on both? that would be awesome. doesn't need to be a WOT pull, just what the gauges are doing when driving and what it looks like. looks really nice man!

I use the ford factory center gauges but the set that has boost/vac instead of just vac. I know it's just "calculated psi" but it seems to work fine. I've not found a gauge i really want to put in in its place that looks right without doing both. although, the banks idash gauges are amazing...

i figured it would be something like that. oh well. getusedtoit.com

new topic: crankcase vapor smell I have the UPR dual valve kit that hooks up to both valve covers and to the supercharger inlet. The hoses that UPR sends are junk and smell terrible with vapor. (they actuall reek as well. the rating on them is just as an air hose, not for oil). I found some...

which is why I probably never will :) it can already get me in trouble wayyyy too fast :)

clutch still fine. only 32k on the clock. I did royal purple and a mgw xspec shifter, so the mt82 is pretty great for me. no need to change.

my other thought is i'm on stock clutch and stock MT82. I'd rather like to not have the trans shell itself because I hook up too well, so having the street tires be the thing that gives first is fine by me. keeps the car more together, and my wallet more together :)

PP1, so 3.73 gears.

phaser change is really easy. I did that just to rule it out and swapped in some heavy duty ones last year.

Wish I knew about this before. I was changing from my precision bov to tial on my back praying the oring would stay in place and not get ripped.

I got straight cut by accident. I ordered quiet. Glad I stuck with it!

only other difference I see is I'm running GT500 injectors, but I'm sure that's not it.

eh, going down from the 125mm pulley doesn't hold much value for me. I'm on street tires and 91 octane and will stay on street tires. I can't hook this thing AT ALL if I lay into it, so more power is pointless. I had looked at the 18+ intake for a while, but the better breathing on the top once...

idling in the 20's, don't remember the exact. 22-23? as I said, I can do it all in third and it's nigh imperceptible. makes me wonder if something is just different in the computer for first and 2nd...

I'll try that. I generally have given more clutch than that when needed, which drops the revs. Then I have to rematch revs getting it back in sync to keep it any kinda smooth happening.

This is exactly what happens to me.

The car is absolutely not down on power, telling me the doors are working, if that's what you mean. Vacuum is good and coming from original source. Other than the bucking in the specific scenarios I mentioned, car drives totally fine. A vac leak would show other issues as well I would assume...