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I was not ready to do a tune to take proper advantage of E85, and don't think running E85 with the ProFlex and no tune was providing enough benefit to justify the hassle of running E85. If/when I go for E85 I'll do a full tune. I still have it if you want it 🙂

The tires make a big difference too - PS4S are much more stable on the road and don't follow road imperfections like Cup2s.

I'd start with the pigtail connector - cheapest, easiest, very common.

Well I'll keep y'all posted. I'm not running DSC controller or other aftermarket electronics, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'm still carrying my OEM battery in the trunk for the moment until I have more confidence.

My best guess on the fire was a clutch line coming loose at the brake master cylinder (clutch pedal dropped to the floor) and fluid igniting on the hot headers. Fire center was near the master cylinder. Then, fuel line comes through the firewall nearby, so heat melts the rubber line going to the...

Well, yes, I did fix it, but I doubt you would want to replicate my fix. My car engine caught fire at a track event in the spring, and the rebuild included replacing all the wiring harnesses. It did work, though!

I have the heated and cooled seat and use these. I've also added a bolt-in rear bracket (under the rear seat bolts) and anti-sub belts to make it a 6-point harness. I just run it between the seat back and base and sit on it.

I can't remember if we need the '05 - '17 version or the '18+ version: https://www.opmustang.com/store/p406/SCHROTH_QUICKFIT_PRO_2018-2022_Ford_Mustang.html#/

OP Mustang carries it: https://www.opmustang.com/store/p361/SCHROTH_QUICKFIT_PRO_2005-2017_Ford_Mustang.html#/

What I would add is this: Fully agree with paying for seat time and instruction rather than trying to buy faster lap times I would suggest mods for maintainability, reliability, and safety. For example: Personal Safety: harness (I use Schroth Quick Fit with no rollbar), helmet, HANS...

Caveat emptor

Installation won't keep the tabs from ripping out of the pan...

What a great looking car with great looking wheels! :)

It isn't fun, but I've pulled mine in and out several times (I have a BMR swaybar). You do have to squeeze it past the radiator hose and you have to have the right orientation, but it's doable.

I'm very happy with the BMR springs for both street and track. I have another set for sale in the classifieds.

It's the base splitter. That would be a steal for the R 🙂

All can be shipped at buyer's expense (almost all are already boxed up) or picked up near Nashville, TN. Most are New in Box never installed. Pair of GT350 steering knuckles ('15 - '19): $625 Ford front control arms with Cortex Monoball bushings installed (NIB): $525 Ford rear lower...

If you aren't tracking or driving hard it may be fine to just swap back at the next oil change, but it's a gamble you'll have to determine for yourself.

Have to agree with this concern. I replaced my oil plug thinking I was upgrading and ended up blasting it out of the oil pan (despite being safety wired) and requiring a new oil pan. Expensive lesson - stick with OEM or similar plastic. Aftermarket metal expands at a different rate under heat...

My OEM reservoir degraded and sprung a leak, so I went with metal. Likely a combo of heat from track days and UV from sunlight through the hood vent.