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I'm thinking about writing a letter to Ford customer service (or whatever it's called) and seeing if they'd be any help. I still have the estimate from the dealer right after I bought the car. Might be the best way to approach it now. Thanks again.

I'll have to review the corrosion warranty again. I'm pretty sure I was w/in the warranty period when I had the dealer examine the car. If this "TSB" means that my surface corrosion is (was) subject to repair at Ford's expense I'll give it another try. But ... The TSB is dated 2020. Which was...

No idea what reply you'll get from your local dealer. When I bought my '15 in '21 it had the same issue. I discussed it with my local Ford Dealer and was told corrosion was only covered if it was perforated all the way through (so there was a hole) within the original warranty when sold to the...

See if you can locate the wiring for the reverse lights below the trunk. If there is access to them from the trunk you should be able to use them. The other possibility is the Reverse Lamp fuse. If a Fuse Tap will fit you can tap off from it and run it back to the camera. If the fuse is in the...

Unfortunately the purchase was too old for eBay to maintain the history. Here's an image from my purchase history... Not sure if it will help. But if you search on eBay for service manual downloads or pdfs for the Mustang you should find a comparable manual. Check with the seller and find...

Oh. One other thought. You can get a loaner A/C Manifold set at your local auto parts store. Connect these and check the pressure. If the pressure is OK it's not the Evaporator Core.

Before I discovered that my Evaporator was bad I had problems with condensation on the inside of the windshield. When the freon was completely gone there was oil residue dripping from the trans pan. It looks just like engine oil (Golden color) but it's refergerant oil. If you are having either...

I purchased a download from eBay a few years ago for around $20. It was a pdf of the Ford OE Service Manual for the car. It's complete and it's great. No idea how they get away with selling a copy of the Ford manual but apparently they do. For $20 it's worth the risk.

Sorry to hear it. Could be plenty of possibilities. Master Cylinder, Vacuum Booster, ABS Hydraulic Module/Pump, damaged or blocked hydraulic line, sticking Caliper, vacuum leak. I wouldn't experiment with the brakes. Take it (or have it towed) to someone you trust and have them evaluate it. The...

Since it's a learning exercise the head gasket is a respectable place to start. It'll also allow you to visually inspect the condition to the head &/or cylinders/pistons before you decide how to proceed. If neither the block or heads show any damage I'd just replace the head gasket. If either...

I had to pull the seats when I replaced my evap core. It's not too hard. One of the bolts on the passenger seat was frozen and I never got it removed. It's stuck for good. Other than that they're not hard to separate or remove. They are a little heavy and awkward to lift out. If you have a...

I'd do a compression test plus a cylinder leak down test. I'd also perform a cooling system pressure test. If it has a misfire it MIGHT be the cylinder head/gasket/or damage from a cooling system passage failure between the cylinders. If you find no evidence of these problems it might be a good...

Seems like an unnecessary risk. The pre-2021 2.3L engines have known headgasket problems & insufficient coolant passages between the cylinders. They are subject to problems with the stock base 310 HP turbos. Any significant HP increase is bound to lead to disappointment. Your post indicates a...

Sorry to hear your engine died. If the engine died due to headgasket failure/cylinder pair overheating you might consider building a newer (2021+) 2.3 block. New or used. The newer block design is supposed to resolve the lack of suitable coolant passage between the cylinders reducing the...

So I just saw the "new" recall on the F150s for the 6R80 transmissions. Yuck. Doesn't apply to our cars but ... maybe it should. Anyway ... after searching the web I found that there are some who recommend changing the fluid & filter at 30K miles and then every 60K miles instead of at the Ford...

When I bought my car the hood had signs of corrosion on it. I knew about it when I bought it. It's not bad but it's still corrosion. I looked into having the hood repaired but was told that due to "pre-applied" contamination to the panel when it was manufactured the only solution was to replace...

I had been using the Royal Purple & the Purolator Boss filters. I started using the O'Reilly house brand: MicroGuard Select Extended Life filters. They're not as pricey as the RP or the Boss but they're just as good. Synthetic media, Silicone Anti-Drainback Valve, and supposedly good for 10K...

I use a car cover for my 'vert which helps a great deal but ... the first cover I purchased for it deteriorated after a few months from the sun and it left thin spots over the roof that allowed more sun through in spots than the rest of the car. These thin spots resulted in small faded sections...

I put Rain-X Rugged XL Beam blades on my stang roughly 2 years ago. They've held up well in the FL sun and work VERY well in Florida's monsoon rain storms. I've been very pleased with them. I advise against silicone infused blades. I tried these a dozen years ago on one of my cars and they...

You should consider replacing the TXV (thermostatic Control Valve) while you're at it. It might be possible to replace the TXV without removing the dash again but it's much easier now that it's a part. The TXV isn't expensive. Good luck