Much depends on the trailer you intend to tow. Even a 1/2 ton pickup could be dicey if you're hauling a large heavy enclosed trailer and the truck hasn't had the correct build. F-150 can be configured in ways that towing capacity could be anywhere between 5,000-13,000lb depending on the build...
I'll second this. Why?
Even on Porches that are OEM-equipped, we always recommend converting to iron rotors for track duty. It's an entire order of magnitude cheaper and your pad options are greater.
The stock hardware doesn't suck. At all. A pad upgrade is the only cost of entry to HD...
The only real disadvantage is cost to do so. Install (if you're paying someone else to do it), and an alignment after.
The only advantage they provide is adjustment capability.
If you're happy with how the car drives, and happy with the tire wear, I wouldn't bother with it.
Rebuilt the calipers since the dust boots were properly cooked. Once you figure out a method, it really wasn't too bad, but it does make a mess.
During my spring detailed inspection I also found the driveshaft carrier bearing bushing was cooked and starting to fail. Turns out it's not a...
Hopefully yours are fine. At the time, mine was just over a year old and had roughly 2000mi on it, so low mileage didn't mean much for me. Both sides had punched through the rubber and contacting the control arm. I could have just had some bad ones.
Not trying to be argumentative here either, but I finally had to resort to dropping the subframe to get the stock springs out. There isn't enough control arm articulation with the stock spring length. They were loose, but you simply can't quite clear the upper spring seat.
Maybe you might get away with that on a base or GT, but I can tell you after having done this work on mine, I'd not try that on a 350. The stock springs still have a substantial amount of tension until you're way past that point. The FP springs went on with very little coercion from the spring...
They are not serviceable. Either need to replace the entire catalytic converter assembly, or go with what The Chairman posted above.
If you're still under powertrain warranty, you might have some luck getting Ford to replace. They did so for me with no questions asked.
I'd hazard a guess at an issue with the clutch master or slave. This sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging all the way.
The clutch/flywheel info changes the trajectory of this conversation drastically.
I'd be really surprised if they'd be willing to handle this under warranty. And...
I realize this isn't super helpful, but how often are you going through them?
Maybe I'm just a putz, but I've got probably 9k track miles on mine (13k total) and I haven't needed to replace a single wheel bearing yet. I haven't yet done my spring detailed inspection, but everything was still...
Gonna have to agree here.
I wrapped the entire car in xpel, and even at a discounted rate, you totally could buy a beater.
PS, my situation was to protect from track duty. 🤣
I liken it to a paternity test. We can't say with 100% certainty you're the father, but we CAN say with 100% certainty you're NOT the father.
Realistically, they'd be looking for the oil to exhibit certain properties and make an educated guess. Even if the correct oil was used, at the very...
In other more related news, I too have recently re-upped the discount search. Amazon was a very close 2nd place to Rock Auto. A close enough race that it could possibly be in Amazon's favor depending on your location.
I'd be surprised if they didn't. If I were personally on the hook for warranty repair, and there was a suspicion of possible oil-related failure, you bet your ass I'd be ordering a sub-$50 lab test to make sure.
Between cars with remaining OE powertrain 5yr/60k and those that opted for...
Because it's the only option (or was until very recently) that is certified to meet the Ford specification (operative word being certified), and many of us are not interested in toying with a warranty claim denial for a motor as expensive as this one is to repair/replace. Motorcraft is a...
Nothing to the car itself, but I spent an enormous amount of design, print, and assembly hours on this badass wall art. Each individual pixel is 8mm, and the project is 96x96. So this piece is about 33in square with 9,216 pixels.
No need to pry on anything, but you can if you like. Just disconnect 1 end on both sides (or remove completely if you like) and zip tie everything out of the way so it can't move/touch anything, and go for a test drive.