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I hit mine with a die grinder and scotch bright pad and then hose them down with high temp copper anti seize. Not so much an issue for the mustang as it's a summer only car, but really comes in handy on winter beaters in the rust belt. Otherwise you end up with rims seized onto the hubs...

No guidance on the battery, but make sure to put a towel over the fender well for when the terminal shim inevitably falls out and tries to make a run for freedom into your fender....

I checked the door frames on every door, no import sticker, nothing on any jamb all around the truck. Only thing on there is the traditional ford stickers and ironically the truck was made in Dearborn.

I have a Canadian F150 that also came from Ontario. They are an XTR over there instead of an XLT and brought it at somewhat of a discount. When I got my truck in 2015 it was the lowest priced black crew cab long box ecoboost in the country. It did seem to hurt trade in value, but aside from that...

Agreed, nothing but good to say about them. Have had several ecoboost f-150s tuned by them.

Ah didn't realize they varied that much nationally. I just checked the Dow Credit Union, figuring it would be the same in TX as MI, and the high yield checking is only 3% there VS 5% here.

https://fpcu.org/money-saving-rates/certificate-ira-rates Max deposit is 5k and for new members only. Hope this saves somebody some money. Even my checking account at my local CU is 5% return currently. With a little looking there are quite high risk free returns.

I would put the 5k into a CD, and that should cover a tranny when and IF it actually goes. Worst case you make 6% until it does.

Why the old oil? I'll often pick up multiple jugs when on sale and it sits for a year or two? If sealed it shouldn't degrade, or are you referring to it being old in the engine? Is there a shelf life to the additives I'm unaware of?

Heat gun and plastic trim removal tools, hardest part is cleaning the leftover tape residue off of your trunk. Heat gun and just kind of balling it up with your fingers and then wiping down with solvent ( I used Kock-Chemie Eulex...

Was this originally an active exhaust car? I know there is a harness that rides up near the pipes and if not relocated can lock out drive modes and throw some lights. Unsure if it would have anything to do with the reverse lockouts. Just throwing out ideas.

To be honest I kind of want a little bit louder...

I loved when I went to a Steeda X pipe as well. Although the missus doesn't seem convinced that "it's totally not loud at all"

Have pics or a source on the door panel cards etc?

I've got a Ronin plug NIB in box if anybody wants to try one out cheaper than new. Been sitting in my tool box for a few years now.

Yeah my F150 does the same if the battery goes flat dead. You really need to disconnect it from the car and charge it. Usually they don't come back when that low. You may want to replace it all together and just not mess around. Also, I'd check your car for a parasitic draw for it to get that...

I swapped the smaller dust shields onto my 301A GT while doing the swap from 4 piston to 6. Haven't encountered a problem with the smaller ones, did an auto x in the rain and didn't have a problem thus far.

You hit the nail on the head with the tanks being made of carbon fiber and resin. The resin being the big issue with long shelf life. They degrade under UV, can oxidize, and break down over time losing their structural integrity. Think basically about the Titan sub that imploded on the way down...

I'm another vote for 20%, I found something was needed just from the glare coming off the mirrors with all the uber bright LEDs on the crossovers now they end up at the perfect height. Never been bothered in MI for it and any tint outside of the back glass is a no-no. Admittedly I do have to...

Have the same thing for my Harley well worth the $20