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Yup, I actually did. It most likely was cause by the pedal cracking and slowly failing. Look at my thread here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/clutch-brake-pedal-assembly-removal.104338/ I think that creaking was one side of the pedal mounting area cracking. Almost a year later both...

Well, I do have my PP springs in the garage with just over 20k miles on them. I know you want less than 1000 miles, but let me know if you're interested.

Yeah, my car pops and crackles a lot right now. Definitely will decrease once it's fixed, sadly :(

Got you. I called my dealer and asked about if the intake is covered under powertrain (since I am at 45kmi) and they do. But I think I will just do the job myself since I am tired of taking the car to the dealer.:lol:

The question is if this is covered under powertrain warranty. I have a sneaking suspicion that it is not. I see you are still under the bumper-to-bumper, correct?

Yup, Ford will not cover the corrosion. Oh well, just gonna drive around and maybe eventually get it fixed at a competent body shop.

Thanks, but it is actually functioning right now.

Ok, so I put the car into TPMS sensor relearn, but I do not have the relearn tool. I think that was enough for the system to reset and it started working again.... :shrug:

Alright, this car is just falling apart on me. Today while driving to work I had this come on my screen: The sensors on this car are Ford OEM. Guess will be tracking this issue down... bumper-to-bumper warranty is gone. So, just to recap, in the last 2 months I had these issues: 1...

Yeah, well turns out that the powertrain warranty does not cover spark plugs or coils, and if it happens to be one of those then they will charge me $135 just for diagnostics. I will just experiment myself to see if I can isolate it to the coil or plug. If it is not, I will let the dealer verify...

Well, seems like issues are just piling on for me. Got a CEL today after filling up gas. Went to Advance Auto to get it scanned and ECU reported that it's a Misfire on cyl 8. I would tackle this repair myself, but seeing that I still have a powertrain warranty still and that I have popping...

Thank you for this! Will eventually undertake my car too.

Honestly, I was weighing my options. I remember someone mentioning a while ago that replacing the half shafts fixed their issue also. It's either do that or try the nuts out, but I have a feeling that it's the half shafts too. So the GT350 shafts fit without issue by the sound of it?

So I read that a lot of people have the issue coming back even after using Loctite and 150 ft-lbs torque spec. Since the popping on my driver side is really bad, I was thinking if replacing the nuts and retorquing would help considering so many other stated that the issue comes back. One thing...

Yeah, I hope that I do not! If anyone has this issue and has questions about how to get the pedals out, let me know.

No idea man, sorry. I did all the work myself. Actually got the piece back and installed everything back in yesterday! Car running again. Before, I had issues starting the car since the pedal would not engage the neutral switch properly and I would need to basically try to push the pedal...

No, I push evenly. I think the side load may have been the result of the first weld failing on one side and causing the pedal to twist a bit when it was being operated with only one weld intact.

Here's a better view of the failure after sand blasting:

Yeah instead of spot welds, I will ask for an all-around weld on both sides to ensure that this thing never again fails. The weld will be really good cause this guy makes welding an art. Yeah, I had a creak too. Sadly it was not so easily to fix like yours.

Alright, so got the assembly out and disconnected the pedals from the plastic bracket: Here is how the clutch pedal pivot tube looks: As you can see this thing failed pretty badly. I had a squeak/creak last year in the summer which disappeared in the winter. I assume the weld was slowly...