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In theory, it has enough adjustability but it will trigger a code. One tooth off on a cam is about 8 degrees if my math is correct which would double on the crank sprocket.

Well the body harness is freed for the moment. I’m fairly certain that I actually created a nice little desk ornament. For such a thing is not meant to last as it will be de-pinned and reused. I was able to reroute about 60 wires so far. The good news is most wires need to be shortened...

Definitely interested in hearing the details.

Technically mine did rub a touch on the inner fender but that’s because I relocated my fuse box behind the bumper to get the turbos up top in the engine bay. That pressed out the inner fender some, and I had one harness that I had stacked that started to kiss it. I have all the front harnesses...

No rubbing

UPDATE: The part number is here is close but no cigar! Back to the drawing board. Turns out the connectors are Tyco AMP/TE Connectivity. Hard to find now, Mouser etc have all removed their listings. I did find one that is a -3 instead of a -7 but no luck on the transmission and body...

After removing all of the wrap from the body, engine, and transmission harness, I had to get a bit more creative with the PCM mounting. I’m going to relocate the fusebox from behind the bumper to the battery compartment as well. I hate it being sideways and I’ve see instances where water got...

I found them at Connector Experts but they are special order so they are just sourcing them elsewhere and marking them up. At least I have a last resort if I can’t find them priced better.

Yes those are for just driving around with the boost turned down. I bought 2 sets of those wheels so I can have a set of R888Rs on them for events.

Allegedly they are Aptiv (company formerly known as Delphi) Micro 64 C1551 series connectors but I can’t find them on their site and other places like Mouser and EFI Connection that I’ve sourced connectors before.

Anyone know where to source the 3 hardshell connectors and pins? I would prefer to just cut the wires and repin the connector instead of 80 butt splices.

Oil is also a hydrocarbon, and burning it in an engine is less than ideal combustion, so it’s plausible it could’ve been pulling fuel due to that. Incomplete combustion with motor oil can also deposit silicon and other contaminants on the sensor itself as engine oil has anti-wear additives in...

Well since @NGOT8R reminded me that my PCM location isn’t really something I’m happy with, I decided to start moving it to the inner fender area. However as I uncased the spaghetti, I thought my battery really belongs in the trunk at this point and without the battery box there is quite the...

I straightened mine carefully but it still runs near the turbo housing. Don’t have any damage to the heat shielding yet.

Thats it.

I don’t think you’re gonna get a CV axle by the tension link ball joint. I’m drawing a bit of a blank but someone makes a double a-arm conversion kit for the S550. Just can’t remember who I spoke to about it now. It’ll hit me at some point lol.

I'll send you the 3D scan of the front GT350 knuckle later tonight. I scanned mine before I did the conversion on my 2023 GT. The tension and control arms have a longer but skinnier taper, but the wheel bearing is larger so there could be more room for the CV joint.

If you’re talking about this picture, I didn’t have any luck getting things by that brace area because there was a lot of stress from the inner fender but I kinda defaulted to machining what I wanted instead of cutting the inner fender.

I have 3 smaller wiring harnesses running in this area, including the power wires to the fuse box. I had one double stacked and that was enough of an offset where my tire has started to eat thru the Tesa tape at full lock-ish. I have 20x10 et35 on the front with 29” tires so you may be all set...

RSR Forged Monoblocks in Brushed Titanium 20x10 35 20x11 50 Car is lowered 1.25”