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You can try here; http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/2016_GT350_and_GT350R_Brake_Parts.html else its girodisc or nothing..

Not that hard to find rotors.... https://www.lethalperformance.com/shop-now/vehicle-selector/ford-shelby-gt350-gt350r/2015-2017-2018-2019-shelby-gt350-ford/brakes/rotors

I've used SPL on my 997TT and they won me over, they are also local-ish to me in TX. I will be putting their control arms on, their camber adjustment is rock solid, means I don't have to get camber plates up top. It would be hard to sway me away from them personally.

SPL>Cortex>Steeda/BMR There is nothing wrong with any of the options, pick which will suit your budget. I have not heard of components failing from the above brands (outside of an obvious manufacture defect, but then customer service is great with all of the above)

I drive in track mode on the street. It is the only mode with linear throttle. There is some low speed damping changes but it is subtle. And you want it to be. If you make a damper change you can feel in a parking lot then you've changed way too much.

Too many things would need to break AND not throw a code for the magnaride mode selection. When the dealer did their diag, did they look to see if any codes were present? The change between normal, sport, and race is pretty subtle this is hard to diagnose over the web because of each person's...

Have you looked to make sure that you have the magnaride dampers? There are magnaride delete kits that people use when swapping for traditional dampers.

As I said before the stinger is the same chassis as the Genesis G70. You could go with one of those instead of the stinger. It will help with resale and I think the G70 is a bit more refined.

It's the same chassis as the Genesis G70

Practicality, cost of ownership, and convenience says the stinger. Use case of track use, cool factor, and overall fun says the gt350

For what it's worth I ran redline oil in my engine and my blown motor was warrantied by Ford This is what I did, kept all receipts and recorded the mileage each service was performed. Even gave them when I put castrol srf in the car. My warranty was approved.

I thought it odd for them to run it at all. The notes I gave them included ~20 seconds of run time after I towed the car to my house and there was no rod knock. They started the car once to try to move it after it was towed to the dealer and again no rod knock. So they started it to verify what...

I don't like non linear throttle and so I run in track mode often if not always. I did get the sense of less torque in general in my 1st-> 2nd gear driving 0-45 mph on the way home. I thought it was just me not having driven in roughly 1 month. I am certain it drove smoother everywhere in the...

Official RCA is in, confirmed spun bearing. Atleast that's where it all started. One of the rods was hanging out of the oil pan. Kevin pointed it out when we were first looking at things but it was hard to tell based on where it was and we didn't have good light or space to confirm. Dealer...

You can also buy an extended warranty at the time of purchase. Or even go through a 3rd party like Fidelity, or even Costco.

Sometimes you have to do that. It sucks because you shouldn't have to. But you can get lucky with a reasonable manager when you show them an amount of proof beyond "your word"

If you walk in with a pre approval from your bank you should be able to convince them to let you test drive. Having money to give on the spot changes the attitude, or at least it should. No good business owner// manager would let money walk out the door. In short, strolling into a dealer...

Not to be rude, but there are several stickies and you can search on the catch cans that people have found useful as well as many threads on exhaust. You can do a small bit of reading and find all the answers you are looking for.

I'm thinking of a Bagel motor shirt group buy... Anyone?

See I had a bagel but gave it to my son because he changed his mind about the cereal... Maybe this is the break we need!