Search results

Would you mind sending me that info as well? Wichita Falls isn't too far from OKC and could use more leverage when I go to order.

Go do a track day.

I just don't speed. It doesn't really save you any time (if you do the math especially on short trips) and I don't like paying money to the state or increased insurance rates. I'd rather spend it on good Bourbon.

Well E85 is a completely different animal to 87 vs 91/93

Ensuring you use an E85 compliant oil and "possibly" shorter interchange intervals. This is what oil analysis is for. Other than that, the only real risk is Ford seeing you've put a tune on the computer. *incomes I put E10 in my lawnmower and it doesn't run comments*

Yep, I joined this forum because I'll be ordering a PP2 in the spring, and the complete lack of knowledge is really mind boggling. It's worse than the Subaru forums.......well at least just as bad. Saying a PI/DI car can't/will be difficult to tune isn't speculation, it's ignorance. As I...

That's Mustang fanbois that don't pay attention to anything but Miller Lite and mullets. PI/DI cars have been being tuned in the aftermarket for years and years now.

No idea, my comment was just in response to Grimace427s comment about forged wheels.

Comparing the weight of OEM to aftermarket forged wheels isn't a great example. OEM wheels are heavier because they have much higher standard for deflection and impact resistance than aftermarket wheels.

That's because everyone on the internet is stock broker with a supermodel wife. ;)

Put me on blast for the same thing. You're a genius bro, a real prodigy. :lol:

Yeah, I've had that happen before on street only cars. Tried to get the wheel off later and shattered 19mm Snap On sockets.

Yep, and I said as much. I also laid out why I think that. Without a direct comparison from both cars at the same track on the same dsay with the same driver the best we can do is guess. At least I'm not making declarative statements like the person on the last page. FFS

Only thing I could find was the lighting lap at VIR, but they took a GT350R, which was ~3 seconds faster. Depending on the difference between the R and the regular GT350 at VIR, that would mean it's close, but probably not faster. Either way, a car that's $15k cheaper and just as or nearly as...

Again, interesting. Myself and everyone else I converse with at the track does it the way I'm speaking of. If you can't line up a wheel with a hub ring and pushing the lugs down tight on the wheel, if this is beyond someone's mechanical skill level, I would highly suggest they not be on a...

Mag ride, 6/4 Piston Brembo's front and rear, PDR, E-diff, coolers for engine, transmission, and diff. Oh and GM doesn't void the warranty if you take it to the track. Yeah "poor man's" Mustang. You fanbois are hysterical.

It's personal preference really. I find extended studs and hub rings make wheel changes and rotations, much quicker and easier, especially when you're hustling between sessions to check a noise, rotate tires front to back, etc. As I mentioned, if you're worried about galvanic corrosion...

This sounds more time consuming and tedious then putting the wheel on, zipping the nuts down mildly tight with an electric, then finishing torque with a torque wrench. For what, to save $20 bucks on aluminum hub rings? :cheers:

You just have to use large spacers on the front. Perfectly acceptable if you have extended studs, like ARP or similar. I'd go that way just so you can rotate.

I've never had luck just trying to slowly tighten down the lugs in order and getting the wheels 100% centered so they don't wobble. Anti-seize and aluminum hub rings, done.