I too was in a similar role early in my career and understand best practices for testing. I actually tried deflecting with light humor; thanks for clarifying your thoughts on that in parenthesis. Also, thanks for clarifying the testing you're looking for.
Unfortunately for you(not so much for...
Big yikes to everyone who lost the plot on buying better tires. If you're driving on public roads, you should be choosing the best tire you can afford and for the conditions you are driving - doesn't matter what car, or what kind of driving. I bought Crossclimate 2 for the family daily/ski-trip...
When I bought my 2018 10r80 GT, it was pre-Covid and I was commuting 35 minutes a day in heavy traffic. I wanted a manual, V8 coupe like the muscle car gods intended, but the realities of daily driving in SF bay area were not conducive to manual transmission.
The 10r80 on stock tune was...
People still buying INDY500 tires is mind boggling to me... and to be paying over $1000 a set at that! Those are near decade old tires with decade old tire technology. I was considering them as a cheapo burner option back in 2018...
A little bit of research goes a long way, especially for...
I am using the Improved racing FSM165 - It's the full size Transmission cooler with 165F Thermostat core and -10AN internal diameter flow, and I have it paired with improved racing -8AN fitting adapters and Evil Energy 0.5 inch barb adapter(90 degree) to match 0.5 inch OEM hardline diameter +...
Original post UPDATED!
It's been great news, all is well and pretty much where I expected and want it to be. I have hundreds of miles on the car since I finished install - zero issues!
I'll answers questions in order:
1. I have not hit track yet, I just finished less than a week ago! Track...
Thanks Philip, your projects were in part what inspired me to take on my own.
You're also right about overfilling, and that's why I've been so cautious about adding too much...so much so that I delayed adding enough!
Ford procedure calls for fluid to be at or below the 6 point on the dipstick...
I DID IT! 11QTS of fluid! Now fluid shows on disptick level 6 while engine idle + trans cold. Just as ford requires!
Ford procedure now states I can drive the car or brake torque(on and off 10 seconds) while in air to get trans to temp. Once at temp(200F+, 165F with my thermo), I will check...
I am now at a total of 10QTs in and still no fluid showing on dipstick with engine running, car in park. I get Fluid up to level 3 on the dipstick when engine is off. I only have 2 more QTs left and I'll be adding them tomorrow to see if I can get some to show on dipstick with engine running...
Got under the car again today to check fluid level. Engine at idle, trans in park. I check dipstick and it's completely dry except for maybe a bit up high where it touched some fluid at the fill hole. Here is a picture:
Still the same dipstick reading after adding another quart of ULV fluid...
As a Wengerd customer, Daryl and his team have taken extra time to listen to my feedback and revise tunes for me that dramatically improved the shift quality on my 10r80. They sent me multiple tunes to try out, and one of them ended up being a winner. It was a huge relief that Wengerd team did...
I've also been interested in DSC sport, Steeda DSC and Ford Magneride handling pack(M9602M), except I am upgraded on GT500/Mach1 HP Magneride dampers.
Perhaps the Ford Handling pack(M9602M) provides the best bang for buck value with upgraded springs, sway bars and damping tune that supposedly...
Tweaked my neck/back bad this past weekend - not going to aggravate it any further getting under the car. The NordLock washers came in, so I'll try them out asap.
Traveling for the next 4 days so hopefully will be ready and able bodied when I get back.
I was originally planning on going PTFE lines all the way with the same/similar adapter you linked, I decided instead to keep as much OEM steel tubing as possible. The quick disconnect point along the lines allows me to fabricate and replace only 2 feet total of steel line. I've also read...
Do you have experience with the Nordlock branded ones? I have tried to remove the OEM bolt I am currently repurposing the extra threads at the end of, but met some resistance when trying to unscrew and don't want to strip anything. Plus there is a metal bracket/clip with holes that the bolt goes...
Updated post to current progess!
Going to repeat my questions here too:
1. For vibrations, should I use threadlocker(Blue?) or locking washers(nord-lock)?
2. Is there anything I've missed or overlooked so far? Nothing is permanent yet and still reasonably accessible.
Thanks!