Yup, you typically don't want a lot of rear camber in a rwd car. The suspension geometry in the rear does allow camber gain so you likely are running more dynamic camber than you think.
Yikes, 565 puts you under OEM rates (1.3hz vs 1.55OEM) this will make a massive difference. You'll get more wheel spin in low speed. Not that you need to improve your throttle management. LoL
With the oem spring location you'll be at a ride frequency of 1.7hz. I'm not sure if that is more or less than you're at now. I'd say raising rear spring rates would be one way to improve the understeer issue
1. I would use toe front and rear, not just making camber adjustments. The underseteer issue is because weight is less in the front relative to the rear (considering you have not changed much beyond springs) Track alignment for US/OS first is toe, then is camber for stability in the corner. COTA...
Steeda is the way to go.
There is soooo much misinformation about exhaust scavenging and back pressure. X pipe or H pipe won't have an appreciable effect on your power / torque production. Your headers are the most important for exhaust scavenging which reduces back pressure MUCH more than a...
Springs contribute to roll stiffness much more than ARB's. I wouldn't set the ARB;s to full stiff, you generally want them as soft as you can get away with. I do agree with the whole system being under sprung. With that said a bump in spring rates requires less total ARB
Definitely time to...
Can you start at 3/4 tank? Or just run it really hard and try to get near fuel starvation? You'll need to find that line to make usable observations.
I wouldn't say the front is too low per say. Which ever aero element generates the most downforce will be sensitive to pitch angles. If you raise...
Can you add to the front splitter? If you had adjustable ride height for the front, you could raise the front ride height a few mm's to move your aero balance forward. Might be worth considering checking ride height with a full tank of gas. Now that I've thought that out, it could be that with a...
Dampers are the best, and most expensive of all the options to give you the changes you want. You most likely need more low speed damping in the front. Otherwise you have too much front spring relative to the rear. You would want stiffer springs all around if you are still getting un wanted body...
Track mode with sport damper setting. I hate the non linear sport throttle. I also like less stability control. Else its normal mode with the exhaust open, it mostly depends on how lazy I feel like driving. Like after BJJ open mat I drive slllooowww.
Bought mine last year with 6400 miles on it. Was a single owner car. I have DD'd it as well as tracked it since. Motor let go with 19k miles on it, Ford replaced it under warranty. Now I have 3500 miles on the new motor since the middle of June. The car is juuust right as far as the spring rates...
I change mine depending where I am in the service life. Example if I changed my oil 1k miles ago and then track it, I'll perform a normal change at 4k miles. If I am at 3k miles before the track day, I will change before and then perform another at 4k miles. So I always try to have fresh oil for...
For my warranty replacement they stopped the tear down after dropping the oil pan and finding 2 rods in it. No DME scan was performed, turns out the guy who replaced my engine is a co workers BIL who I've actually met before. So I got more of an inside scoop on what all they did at the dealer.
I have RSL29's on the front. To my knowledge they don't make rears? KNS told me that it is a custom cut for the front pads already. I run stock in the rear and have not felt like I needed more.
Mine wail like a banshee, if you have a secret for them to be quiet I'm all ears... with what little hearing I have left LOL
I ran these for my last track day when the motor blew up. They were rock solid, I also use Castrol SRF and I had no brake fade and the petal feel was firm. I had no...