I mean - really the question is what you consider reliable, or what you want your power goals to be.
when you’re making 2.5x the power the car came with there’s going to be some sacrifices if you’re not willing to invest $$$ into building everything to handle it.
Im nearing the 100k mile...
New slave cylinder? Bench bleed the slave before hand? Proper torque specs on the pressure plate/floater? Discs in the correct orientation? Did you have the alignment tool properly installed during torquing procedure? the Plastic ones tend to droop a bit and can cause disc mis-alignment.
Your best bet is to adjust how the engine sits on the motor mounts.
Texas speed have sold thousands of these header sets and hundreds of other owners have used multiple other brands - they all have differences in fitment.
If you're worried about cost and buying a new set and installation etc...
Poly mounts tend to not be very harsh as they still allow a bit of flex - delrin or solid though I'd stay away from...I'm pretty tolerant of noises and I daily drove mine up until about 4 months ago (98k miles currently) - and even with a bumper exit I wouldn't do Delrin/Solid mounts :D
When you say insulators, are you referring to the foam pieces that sat atop the factory fuel rails between the coolant lines?
Anything in the engine bay that "touches" can potentially effect knock sensors...hell my downpipes touching the front bumper (being plastic) was causing false knock in...
Rod-end are always going to make more noise than bushing based - It's a solid connection that provides much less flex - at the expense of some noise.
If you want to get creative you can take a set of poly bushings and cut them to size and place them on the sides of the rod end when installing -...
Unlikely your half shafts "wore out" - you'd have much bigger problems.
I'd take a look at the upper Differential bushings - those are known to tear in the S550's.
There are a few options for upgrades - BMR makes a puck style that just inserts in and doesn't truly replace it.
@KellTrac makes...
Kooks use a Ball/Socket style connector where as Texas Speed use a slip over joint - you'd need either an exhaust shop to modify them or to purchase kooks cats and connect them to your existing mid-pipe.
Sounds like a loose clamp/coupler - also a possibility that they moved some of the heat shielding around and its now lose as well.
Doesn't sound like anything detrimental at all - just something loose.
Looking to take on a bit of a project & looking for an 18-2023 Driveside headlight - can be broken/damaged/missing tabs/non-functioning. I really just need the housing/lens.
Loosen the top of the motor mounts - place a pry bar between the passenger header & the body and push towards the driver side.
Have a buddy tighten down the motor mounts while holding pressure - I had the same issue with mine when they sent me their prototype set way back when.
The dents are...
Mcleod RXT & Mantic are the two main ones I'd be looking towards.
Although I'm sure we could likely pester Lethal into producing their LPX or LPXHD for the GT350 as well!
No,
Lund NGauges are locked to Lund only.
HP Tuners NGauges can be used by varying tuners. They are also no longer produced as Emotion went out of business due to the EPA.
Most commonly used device now seems to be the MPVI3.