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Both sides were torn on mine. Replaced with BMR spherical bearings at 25000 miles. Made a big difference. There will be some (to me minor) whirring bearing noise transmitted into the car after install. Poly is probably not a good idea there due to the articulation angles needed.

You would need a specific tune from someone for the increased diameter to use the SCT Tuner to install.

That is a screaming good deal! I have had one installed since a couple months after purchase of a new Bullitt in 2019. It completely cured high rpm 2nd to 3rd shift lockout and makes shifting feel more direct. The only con to the more direct feel is you can feel the gears mesh when shifting due...

Sway bar end links must be torqued to spec. If they are tight, but not tight enough, they will clunk intermittently. If they are actually loose they will clunk constantly. I had same problem as described by OP with a stock link. It could be tightened, but not to torque spec; it would just spin...

Brake dust will take care of that for you in no time. I put black Gorrilla tape over the weights on two of my wheels then got lazy and left the other two alone. After a few hours of driving, it's hard to notice the bare weights anymore.

Spray around bushing sleeve, both sides with liquid wrench or whatever penetrating oil is around. Put in press and tighten down as much as your dare. Get hammer (bfh) and tap on press to give it an extra nudge. This worked for me on both arms. Caution that thing may go flying.

While on jackstands you can lift the control arm to ride height with jack and then tighten all.

Any bolt that passes through a rubber bushing needs to be tightened at weight. Some of the factory suspension points are spherical bearings and can be tightened in the air. If you have switched any to spherical bearings or poly they can be tightened in the air.

You shouldn't need to get all the bushing out if you are removing the sleeve. Drill a hole near the sleeve big enough for saw blade to cut relief in sleeve and knock the whole thing out

Clubregistration.net is an alternative.

Ford Racing kit does the trick nicely. It includes springs (as someone previously mentioned), swarybars, and magneride tune. Magneride tune is the same as used on pp2, mach 1, and gt350 from the factory. Springs and swaybars are a little stiffer.

Find someone who has the skill and equipment to weld stainless steel. They can weld up the holes, weld up a small reinforcement plate over the hoeles, and then weld the hangers back on to the reinforcement plates. Now to the question, how did it break? Poorly welded hangers to exhaust and / or...

Same here, cool to have trunk pop, but not cool to see it pushed up when closed from too much pressure. My steeda set are on the shelf; originals reinstalled.

You need more toe in front and rear as illustrated by the alignment specs supplied earlier. Too little toe in will kill the inside edge of the tires, as you are seeing. A set of toe plates as also suggested are great for diy toe settings and also camber checks, been doing my own for. 25 years...

If no racing is planned, then Bullitt, or as has been noted a California Specail. Bullitt will probably hold value better. PP2 is more for road race / autocross with it's big wheels and lowered / stiffened suspension; same can be said for a Mach 1.

The rigidness will also most likely cause more damage to the front bumper plastic (or anything else its bolted to) from a minor hit (parking curb...) as there will be no "bounce back" like the plastic tray.

Nice! Looking forward to hearing more about the project...

I don't think poly is going to hold up against the non-linear range of motion needed at that control arm location. That's why the rubber ones tear, so quickly. I went with BMR spherical bearings there. You definitely feel more connected to the road with a bearing vs the rubber. I do wish...

You could go with 275/40/19 on all 4 stock wheels or even 265 on the front. The 275 will be slightly pinched on the front. If you change rear tire size, then you will need to use ForScan to update the computer for correct speedometer and odometer readings. FWIW. I am running 285/35/19 on 4 rear...

I've had the alarm go off in my garage several times when walking closely past it with the windows down with the car not even locked. I then have to run for the remote to stop it. Kind of annoying.