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So I posted on this once before, The WI-FI, if not configured, will hunt all night long for a network and kill the battery. My wife's car suffered from this till I figured it out. I have it configured to my homes network now but I turned it off. I only use it to check for software updates with...

Could be the amount of options in the car. More electronic wiz bang gizmo's you have the more power it needs. All body control modules talk via CAN bus. And These things wake up periodically even when the car is off and tucked away for the night.

Long ago due to EPA regulations on lead, Exide became one of very few manufactures left standing in the US. They make batteries for everybody. What separates them is how they are spec'd out. Ford may call for thicker plates and plastic casing. Those are the prime indicators as to the longevity...

My experience is, it's one of the blend door actuators. I had one with a broken tooth and it made a clicking sound and vibrated the dash. Ford made these things cheaply so they are brittle. Mine was stuck on defrost.

Pulled the cover off and blew the dust off. Took it for a ride. Needs a bath, but unfortunately wife's car needed some TLC.

Put it up on eBay, someone with a broken unit may need it.

One thing to consider is getting in and out of the car. As an older person with arthritis in most joints, I would find getting out of a C8 to be difficult. The C8 is low to the ground. No doubt a awesome car. But the Mustang with it's easy entry/exit feature helps as well as its seating height.

Remove don't replace. Lots of threads about it on here.

2 cars I regret selling, my 1969 Mach 1 428CJ 4 speed with shaker hood and my 1983 5.0 HO 4 speed with T tops. Loved both those cars. Life comes at you and you have to part with things to keep your head above water.

That car is mint. They don't come better than that. If it was close to me I'd be all over it.

Some days you wake up and you're the fish other times you're the bait. The end result is the same.

Like it or not, the ship has sailed. We can sit here and complain all day but change it's going to come any time soon. We have 2 choices, acceptance or boycott. If we boycott then Ford will possibly walk away from the Mustang as Chevy did with the Camaro. I for one don't want to see that happen...

Check this thread lots of info in it, I believe the measurement is there. https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/

I mean un-bolt the lug and remove paint that was under the Lug. Make the best possible electrical connection you can. Reinstall and cover the exposed area with some grease to keep it from rusting.

This is why I run slotted rotors so the moisture is channeled out from under the pads. Just my 2 cents, I have had bad experience with Power Stop and I don't use or recommend them.

It is the connection on the shock tower. The problem with the way Ford makes the connection is that it relies on the bolt to make connection. While new, this is not so much of an issue. But as road salt and rain weathers the bolt from underneath the car, it corrodes and the ground connection...

I'd be interested in the jacking rails. Where in Mass are you?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DN1GQLY3/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=A1F0SDJORJRNJL&th=1 Get one of these in-circuit testers and 1 by 1 test each fuse's current draw while the car is asleep. Be sure to keep a log and to also wait and watch the voltmeter to see if things turn on...

I think it talks to the seat memory module. If it's not there, the seat will not know what position to move back to. That may be the missing piece.

Not surprised. Then the price quoted seems reasonable given that.