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yeah you’re right that I should at least try. I’m just not sure I’m emotionally ready to be dealing with this problem again LOL.

bought the car used (4,000 miles). This was my first oil change (car now has 6,000 miles). I’m just going to overpay at the dealer from now on because (1) it’ll make me feel better (2) it’s walking distance from my house.

I would say you'd need to take it all the way to court if you wanted to make that a true statement. I have better ways to spend my time. Much rather be back behind the wheel than in a room arguing who needs to pay the bill.

dealer said they were un-savable and I think you’re probably right but I also didn’t want them to use turning down recommended repairs down as the reason for denying a future warranty claim. Also, they did have about 150 track miles on them so I wasn’t opposed to a fresh set even though they...

yeah. $400 for the tow, $400 for the track cleanup, $225 for diagnostics at the dealer, $150 for the oil change, $3600 for new brakes and rotors at all corners. Obviously I could have done some of those things cheaper if I hadn’t gone to the dealer but I was not in the mood to take chances given...

yeah some guys told me about that after it happened at the track.

candidly I never even told them. I was so upset that I didn’t think I could have a civil of productive conversation about it with them. By the time I calmed down enough a week later and had the car fixed and all the related bills paid I just wanted to never think about it again. Until this post...

wasn’t a dealer. It was a small time shop that I just wanted to move on from.

For any of you that attended the Northern California Shelby Club Turkey Bowl event at Laguna Seca the Friday after Thanksgiving you likely remember the GT350 dumping oil and white smoke down the main straight before lunch. That was me. Thankfully I didn’t actually blow up my engine as folks...

Looks phenomenal

Awesome news

I have like 3 of these. Bar mount I use for the head rest, suction mount, go pro mount plus a few extra pieces. I also have the form fit phone cradle and the x grip. They are all the best things I’ve used for their respective applications and there all obscenely expensive. Still, if you can...

so you’re saying I SHOULD buy those $200 Sparco gloves I was eyeballing...?

I reached out to him, thanks for the recommendation on that. Perhaps I misunderstood part of their response as well. It would make sense if the swing holes reused the old mounting holes but did not cover the original spoiler center hole. That would reconcile the AC answer with Lorne34's...

well okay I worded that poorly. No one HAS to use jacking rails. What I really meant to ask was would they (the jacking rails) serve any practical purpose given I can use CB005 as rear jack points? Or would I lose something I'd likely miss by removing the rails?

I asked this in another thread, but what I'm wondering is if I just did the 762 and 005 kits, do I still need to keep my steeda jacking rails in place (so I can offset the weight add) or would I be better off keeping them on?

Okay I read all 15 pages of this and I have questions for @BMR Tech (or anyone who’s an expert). 1) is the suggested RLCA bearing part number BK081 (to partner with 762 and 005)? 2) would you still recommend installing the rear camber lockout (WAK761) or is that kind of an unrelated waste in...

from all I can tell, yes the GT350 is a good platform. Keeps up admirably with the 4x priced Porsche GT3 RS cars right from the factory. I already did the wheels/tires part. Went from the OEM boat anchors to the 6GR Ten in R-Spec sizes (11.5 rear, 11 fronts) wrapped in Cup 2. That cut about...

i think we are on different pages here. On my 2017 non-R, I have a spoiler with 3 existing mounting holes, what I wanted to know is will the 2019+ swing mount to those holes. The answer from AC was no, I’ll need new holes, the outer OEM holes will be covered, but the center will not. on an R...

Please elaborate as to why you suggest that If you don’t mind. im not doing the work myself so doing it piecemeal would drive up my install cost. Is there an efficient way to break up the job into smaller pieces without repeatedly removing the same oarts