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I have a Steeda Race Tri-Ax which has very low mileage…lemme know if you are interested

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1F486RcCAt/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Gents, I’m running a 800+ whp blown gen 3 Coyote with t56 swap on e85. The car is an absolute monster

Tremec just released a t56 Magnum which keeps ALL OEM functions: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1F486RcCAt/?mibextid=wwXIfr All you gotta do now is save up the $$$ for the gearbox and the swap

Definitely look into the new T56 Magnum for Gen 3 Coyote. Also, call up Brian at Finish Line Performance. Tell him Joel with the black Roush Supercharged s550 with t56 sent you over.

That is a tricky install for sure. My setup is a 22’ GT and we have the t56 in right now. My shop was Finish Line Performance in Loveland Ohio. They installed a special module which tells the PCM the car is in a single gear. I have no backup camera or rev match. That being said, I would not...

Good point. Nevertheless, this is ALWAYS the conversation regarding vehicles. I’ve got more money invested in my s550 than I care to admit. I know I’ll never recoup those funds. I didn’t build the car to get my money back, I built the car because it’s been a lot of fun

T56 Magnum swap and call it a day. The t56 will hold up for quite awhile at that type of horsepower

I guess there are several variables here…like the gen 3 Coyote is already being regarded as the “best” yet…s650 gen 4 Coyote makes a little more horsepower but less torque and gen 3 s550 are significantly cheaper than s650

I’m too busy APPRECIATING my s550 to think about it depreciating in value…in fact, the longer I have it the more I value my s550

I’m a 22’ GT Roush P2 on e85 with T56 Magnum. Whip made 803 rwhp and 760 torque on Dyno. Rowdy Roddy Piper. lol. Nothing like a PD blower and manual. You’ll need suspension mods and good tires with proper tires. Nitto 555 r2 and zero rear camber. Car will hook and book for real…

Not exactly sure what you’re communicating here, but I do notice a slight dip in AC performance when I cycle between the drag valve being open and closed in a short period of time. Nevertheless, that is usually short lived and the AC recovers and blows cold soon after

Absolutely not. Many factors affect Dyno numbers. If it was particularly hot and/or humid that day. Maybe the 93 octane wasn’t as good, tune, etc.

Strange indeed. I have FI Interchiller Stage 2 with Roush P2 on E85. Car made 803 rwhp and 760 rwtorque Literally, in the hottest, muggiest weather my whip does pull after pull and never once pulled timing. The confusion is probably in the “drag valve” setting whereby the Interchiller...

Not sure where you’re getting information from but FI Interchiller definitely does not negate cabin AC in any fashion

@ZZMike do you have an official ETA on these yet? Thanks!

You may consider unplugging AVID device and then plugging back in and rebooting it for the best results.

My suggestion is to go ahead and order a sleeved built bottom end. Pull your current bottom end and wait to ship it off in a couple years, then you’ll have a back up. https://rpgracingengines.com/product/rpg-2015-22-gt350-5-2l-flate-plan-crankshaft-level-3-short-block/

It’s my understanding the analog dash gauges in many of the SN197 Mustangs are no longer available to purchase or replace… If that’s true, then it goes to show every kind of part in our cars Will one day be obsolete and/or unavailable. Nevertheless, @sk47 have you considered a low mileage late...