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So I blew a head gasket and I have a couple questions for guys that have swapped gaskets before. 1. How “perfect” does the surface need to be? I’ve check for flatness and it’s as close to perfect as you can get but where the old leak was I noticed some very slight etching. Not enough to catch...

Good to know!

perfect thanks 👍

Of course.. that part I assumed.. just not sure on the length needed to check across its length or diagonally for that matter

What size straight edge do I need? I don’t have the heads off so I can’t really tell. Can I get away with a 24” one?

I had two tunes on the stock cats. Procharger tune for maybe 8k miles and a local shop tune for another 8 or so. Swapped to kooks green cats when I got it tuned by lund

I had stock cats on a 530whp procharged car for maybe 18k miles. Replaced them with green cats but the stock ones looked and ran perfect. anyone know if e85 is easier on cats?

A appreciate it:like:

Thanks for the heads up. I’m assuming you’ve had a bad experience. They seem to have a pretty legit setup ... too bad not such a great reputation

What kind of boost are you building it for?

I see.. I didn’t know that the secondary chains are a weak link. I was wondering what benefit does the mmr flip kit provide? I was thinking about getting the mmr secondary guides since I’m on e85 full time but not sure if that’s necessary. you commented on the opg’s/cs... already did that at...

That’s for all the info! Couple questions if you don’t mind... Why new chains? Could they be that worn after 20k miles? How did you determine those gap specs?... I’m just curious so I can do my own research as well. thanks again!

Thank you for your help by theway yeah that was my first concern... but after talking with Lund he was 99.99% it wasn’t detonation and said that random leaks can occur and they’ve experienced it before. So I’m hoping it’s that simple... we’ll see

I was planning on going with studs. so you feel that the pistons/rods can handle my power level? If so.. then I suppose gapping my rings (or new rings)would be a good safety measure. Do you have any specs on ring gap that would be appropriate for my application? The car only has 20k miles on...

Do you think I’m better off buying a straight edge from summit to check for head/block flatness or just take the heads to a shop to have them check? I’d love to not have to mill if possible.... I wonder about conflict of interest when asking a machine shop to check if a part needs to be...

that seems like another great option thank you!!! Now I just need to decide which one to go with...

Is that your opinion of just the blocks strength ? Or pistons and rods as well?

awesome! Will do!

Just like the title says... I’m looking for any reputable machine shops in the Phoenix area... experience with coyotes would be a major plus! thanks in advance for the help!

Gotcha.. I hope nothing much needs to be done.. I don’t know of a good trustworthy machine shop in my area. I may need to start a new thread and see if anyone on the forum does. How about you... any good shops in Phoenix?