It doesn't sound like piston slap to me. It's more of a rattle like a timing chain or something. I thought it might be slap as well since it's been in the 40's and 50's here in the morning, but even when I saw over 190 oil temp I could still hear it at 2800ish. It was much fainter at that...
I noticed it on mine at about 2,400 at light throttle. Heavier throttle makes it go away. Mostly when cold. When it's warm I only noticed it once around the range you mentioned.
I also noticed whenever I shut the engine off there's a pop coming from the intake.
Otherwise, nothing out of...
I think I'm around 18 mpg for lifetime mileage at just over 1,000 miles. We hit 21.1 on the way down to Daytona for the Rolex 24. My lowest was during the break in trip home from the dealer where it was 14ish.
It's pretty easy to get low numbers in this one.
Even at 6'2" and 235 lbs they fit fine on me. A little tight on the hips and thighs, but they'll break in. My only concern is making sure to not slide over them too much. I try to pick myself up and plop myself down when getting in and out to minimize bolster wear.
Watching the Jay Leno...
This. It's generally a reasonable idea to not go WOT a lot or rev high until the car is mostly up to temp. And the coolant temp gauge comes up a lot faster than oil temp.
This shouldn't be an issue for most since the car will have enough temp in it to go balls out after 2-4 miles depending...
See my posts above about the high g stuff. It's true for sure.
Regarding guys not liking high weight oil, I wouldn't recommend a 50 weight in a car that has OE bearings. The clearances are pretty tight. With aftermarket bearings, or more of a looser setup the 50 weight oils are great.
So, they're still building them, just not scheduling new VINs. Unless we had a reason I'd chalk it up to Ford scheduling enough to be built for whatever resources they have and not seeing the need to schedule another batch.
Mobil 1 has a poor rep in the Evo and STi community as well. However, the 15w-50 M1 works fine. We do need higher viscosity oil, but still my oil temps never went over 280, which "should" be fine for a synthetic oil. At the time I lost the engines I had a 2.0 that went to 8,400 and a 2.5 that...
I likely won't be using motorcraft with Motul offering the 5w-50 now. My current plan after the break in is to run either the Motul 8100 5w-40 or the sport 5w-50. Likely the 40 weight in winter months and 50 weight in the summer and for track days.
I'm thinking about One Lap next year. I...
Yep, my autox car is a Subaru, and it was my track car until it went to much in to autox to be a good track car. After I switched from Rotella to Motul I stopped losing engines.
In reality it's a fine oil for a lower revving daily driver engine that won't see high temps which is why Subaru...
It's great for diesels ;)
In track environments or in higher revving motors it's not that great. The track crowd very rarely uses it. I used to use it religiously in previous cars, but when I lost two motors in two years I started researching it and it shears down quickly at high temps...
Just a note, 300V doesn't have a lot of the detergents that a street oil has so Motul will tell you to change it more frequently. They quoted me 3,000 street miles when I asked a year or so ago.
I ran a UOA on some 15w-50 300V out of my autox car after about 150 "race" and dyno miles and...
When you get a UOA the vendor generally shows universal averages for the metals and detergents in the oil. Over time when you keep sending samples in for testing you get a personalized average for your car as well so you get a baseline. I use it on my autox car to see how the bearings are...
I would suggest using this site to figure it out: http://www.kabamus.com/garage/gears.html
He's asking if anyone has calculated the top speed difference in each gear between 3.73 and 4.09. I know it's hard to figure that out in a thread about changing rear end ratios ;)
I would wager that...
The stuff besides oil is condensation from inside the block, fuel, and exhaust fumes. It's already in your oil and most of it is burned off or evaporated once the car/oil is up to temp. The return style systems that work well use a coolant line to warm the catch can up to operating temp which...
There are plenty of other cans on the market. Multiples are listed in this thread.
In regards to what UPR posted in response, it's obvious the cans work. I'm sure the other cans listed will work as well. My point of a catch can being a catch can still stands. Pick the one you like and go...