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Thank you for the encouragement and words of wisdom. This is what I need

Sometimes I question: Am I wasting my time/money? My V6 is pretty decently modified, has now 49k miles on the odometer, and is worth 14k to insurance and KBB. I bought it for 22.5k in cash during the goofy COVID times with only 16k miles on it, so about 3-4 years ago. I bought what I could...

I want both. I will be purchasing a new detailing vehicle soon, and it will be a manual daily driver. The mustang will be garaged and stripped to be spot welded frame, supercharged, caged and suspension built for track purposes. It will stay a V6 and 6r80 car. Both is good. But I prefer manual...

This.

1. No, you do not need to wash after you clay bar AS LONG AS you use a clay bar lubricator. My go to favorite for my detail business is P&S Beadmaker. Spray generously to still wet car (from washing) and then clay bar and continuously lubricate as you go. Then wipe down the residue with a...

It kind of sucks but I also bought what I could afford to replace should something go wrong on the track or during daily driving. The future Mrs. Is super excited for after we buy our new house we will buy me a daily and the mustang will become something like @honeybadger has. and i will be...

Meanwhile, I am hoping @DFB5.0 will be proud of me. I have taken much of his advice posted on here into consideration over the past year, learned on my own as well, and opened up my own mobile Auto Detail as my side business. I hope to fund the track car build by this and so far profits are...

Been another long hiatus…and might be another one soon. Life is coming after me in a very good way… Got the Steeda install done along with many other parts (some from my new friend @1 old racer ). Switched over to 315 Michi PS4s. Got a new serpentine belt and coolant flush with one...

Jealous. Wish I lived in the United States. :)

My friend where are you based out of? We are getting some storms here in Northern Cali too.

Ask me how I know. also for what you want in terms of lowering, i suggest looking jnto a complete kit from steeda. Just make sure its a street kit. No need to go crazy here. I built my own kit from their parts and saved a ton that way. Or go with a ford performance street kit if you like OEM.

To reiterate what my good friend @2morrow said, ditch the fake spacers and get extended lugs, apex wheel brand spacers, open ended nuts, and save yourself from broken hubs, broken studs, axle issues, wheel issues, and LOTS of potential later money suckers. The rears are fine stock but the fronts...

Half of the fun is building the car yourself…run what you brung…or in this case, what you can afford to replace. More fun (imho and based on experience) to drive a slow mustang than a fast miata.

When you run out of things to do on your GT350 (funny like that will ever happen) I gotta take some track car building masterclasses in person from you. Your car is my dream with my own, only using the 6 cylinder powerplant and a supercharger paired with the stock 6r80 and a HTG Tuning...

I will be switching to AAD and Cortex Racing suspension once the mustang is off the street for good. For now my Steeda is holding up well, albeit a little noisy clunking every now and zen on rare occurrence. plus I am balling on a budget right now…trying to save for a house ;-;

Upgrade the rear using a “OEM 2016 Ford Mustang GT Rear Remanufactured Brake Caliper Kit” from Powerstop. Just avoid their brake pads and use OEM ones. Its a bolt on affair. I wrote about it in my build link I believe.

I did this upgrade and did a write up on it. Many recommended PP Brembo calipers over the 4-pistons…I did the PP Brembo upgrade and it was worth every penny. However, do NOT upgrade to GLOC pads or anything other than stock OEM pads UNTIL you have used the OEM pads at least 3 times at track...

I run 19x11s on all four edges, Michi 4PS 315s. SVE SP2s (discontinued wheel from LMR) pics in my profile are of when I ran 295s which just looked a wee bit weird

I third this please