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IIRC, Sam recommends the rear bar to keep the front tires on the pavement while accelerating. These cars, when stock, have a tendency to lift the inside front. A stiffer rear bar generally removes that. His rear bar is extremely soft, barely stiffer than stock in the softest setting IIRC...

I would be lying if I said my car never got driven hard. At 17k miles, the car has probably 400 autocross runs on it. That said, summer may have only started "technically" a few days ago, but the weather has been ridiculously hot and humid since April. We basically never had a spring...

Mine went out right at 17k miles. Car went in to first dealership, tech replaced leaking AC Compressor, said it was good to go, got in it and no-go... car was blowing hot air. Took it back, they drained and refilled and said it was good to go, got in, worked fine for about 15 minutes, after...

Yeah, I'll be following the results very closely to see how the 18's are doing. Zero to 60 MPH times are identical, but not ever having to shift would also be nice... those few instances in which going beyond 60 is a thing (as has happened a few times) might offset the identical 0-60 times on...

Honestly, having tested all three settings on the BMR 35mm front bar, I wouldn't put it beyond the softest setting. Just enough bar to put the bias slightly into understeer territory, but not enough that you can't correct with throttle application. My co-driver and I have ran all three bar...

You can add my 2015's AC compressor to the list as well... did a lot of checks this afternoon, fuse is good, idle is increasing when AC is turned on at idle (meaning the ECU is at least recognizing the switch being pressed), pressure in system is good, but the AC compressor clutch wont engage...

Honestly, the difference in width when a 285 is crammed on a 9" wheel vs a 275, is pretty minimal. That 10mm extra width might only see the contact patch grow by a mm or so due to the pinching. Ideally, the 285 would be on a 10" wheel for flattest contact patch, but we don't run 275's on my...

Softest. It didn't need much more front bar IMO, just enough to settle the rear of the car a little bit. I run the BMR front bar there and have ran it in all three places and the other two just made the car a smidge too pushy in steadstate for my codriver and I's driving style.

I'm not sure the gain is that large going from something like the Koni's to a set of pimpy shocks. If it was, I think we'd be seeing a huge number of people switching to them. Of course, I look at it from my own results... I'd have to shave off nearly a full second each day to beat Cashmore on...

Which is why when I got my S550 the first thing I did was jack up the front of the car, take the wheels off and start loosening suspension bolts and tugging, pushing and pulling as best I can. Stuck at about -2.0º without the smooth bolts (still running the splined ones). Not that I ever plan...

I'm with you on this. The vast majority of "major" corners in autocross are usually preceded by a pretty heavy dig. The gearing change on the 2018's definitely made me raise my eyebrows but I think the 3.73's and shorter second gear ratio of the 2015-2017's are going to pay dividends on the...

I'm interested in it as a tow vehicle for the racecar (3250lb Fox Body) and a DD. Should be a great little truck if the programming on the transmission is worth a dang! With peak torque as low as it is on the ecoboost, fuel economy while towing should be decent compared to other gassers, but...

You seem to be missing a decade from the 14 year run part! :lol: The Fox 3 chassis underpinned what enthusiasts call the "Fox Body Mustang" from 1979 to 1993, that's true... But the Fox 4 underpinned the SN95 and New Edges (Still chassis code SN95 on the Fox 4 platform) from 1994 to 2004...

I guess I don't see how -2.5º is too much camber up front for the suspension (unless you are talking per the OEM slotting procedure) when we are still seeing gobs of wear at about 2º or more taper from inside to outside edge. I'm pretty sure if you slotted the struts until the spindle bottomed...

You have more faith in the strength of those axle tubes than I do apparently!

Don't rule out the differential issue here either. The Torsen T2R is not exactly known to be confidence inspiring in hard braking due to the fact that it in effect goes "open" off throttle. There is a reason road course teams prefer clutch based diffs on their cars! Some lock up under braking...

I'm leaving because the car has dubious competitiveness Nationally compared to the BMW's and new Camaro. Locally it's been fun and fantastic, but Nationally, I don't hold my breath unless a course is really dig intensive, of ever having a chance at catching those other two. To add insult to...

The thing is that "prepping to the max" in FS is really easy to do. The amount of things to do is tiny. Choosing between a front or rear swaybar, slotting the front struts, getting on the right tires and new wheels if you want to and then picking a catback exhaust. That's really about it and...

#32 F-Street in the Ruby Red GT/PP!

I'll be honest, the best thing I ever did was ditch the factory shocks/struts. Fixed so much about the car that was frustrating me that I can't even begin to think of any other place to start. What is also fascinating is that in all the hubbub Ford made over "IT HAS AN IRS ZOMG!" they did a...