I would Attribute the faster slalom times to the fact that the car was lowered. This lowers the center of gravity and therefore increases the cornering capacity of the car.
The rest of the tests actually showed that the car was slower with these shocks installed.
people have had issues with there aluminum diff bushings in the past, to the point where aluminum shavings were forming. Might want to change those out.
It's probably just a little too long. Try trimming the rubber piece by an eith of an inch or so. An exacto knife or scissors should do. If you can't get the rubber piece out of the knob try a pick
All there parts are 304 stainless steel. Thats pretty standard in the exhaust industry. I dont see what alternative solution you think would be better here but this kit will be find for your application.
There is a two step on the GT's nowadays from the factory.
Also if your not running your car at the drag strip constantly I would not recommend getting a no lift shift spark cut system. They are VERY hard on the car on multiple fronts. Transmission and clutch are the obviously affected...
This might serve as a helpful explanation for this phenomenon.
Tires like many other substances have a temperature in which the elasto-polymers in the rubber actually become rigid and crystalline. The temperature in which the rubber transitions from this hard, grip-less structure to a useful...
Theres a lot of great benefits between all 3. Im not sure why the third options thrown in here when you specifically asked for input on just Steeda and Barton but Im sure its simply because MGW has a quality product. Honestly I prefer the Tri-ax Steeda shifter, its the lightest, least expensive...
They will be fine. Just take some time to build them up to temperature if your new to driving. The rubber on tires have something called a "glass transistion temperature" This basically means that the rubber acts like a solid compound with minimum grip until you reach a certain temperature...
Really high hysteresis tires will still get hot but you would definitely need some tread to handle the water. You would need a very agressive (soft) compound though. Otherwise something like a 220 treadwear autocross tire like an re-71R might be a good solution.
For autocross I had these set at -2.5 degrees in the front. Finally got rid of the factory understeer. But I have a lot of other mods to help change the balance (anti roll torque distribution) of the car front to rear.
Your factory adjustment can handle getting the car back into the stock alignment specs if your just using BMR lowering springs. If your looking for better handling and grip I would suggest camber plates. I currently have the Steeda plates on my car and they have given me so much front end grip...
I had the FRP in my car for about a week and then had to pull it out. The NVH was so bad! Mostly its just the reverse lockout collar vibrating against the shift lever itself so you get this terrible shifter buzz the entire time.
It depends on what your goals are for the handling of the car and what your other alignment settings are. However If your looking for a track setup I would recommend going with the second to softest on the front and the stiffest in the rear.
A colder weather street setup could look more like...
Fantastic Flares
Everyone needs to quit hating on the flares. If your criticism is that it doesn't look good my answer is who cares!? The car is obviously built as a track car and you are NOT getting those size wheels and tires under the stock body, period. The flares are their for function so...
I used to have this unit. Unfortunately there isnt a real solution available. You have a plastic reverse lockout collar which has some slop over the shift lever itself and that thing just vibrates away. The issue is that you need to isolate the plastic to metal contact somehow but you cant use a...