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If you change the stock pulley to increase boost the supplied elbow collapses. Most people dont run a elbow with the red race valve because it wont fit unless you relocate it.

Red race valve wont fit with the 90 elbow supplied. It needs to be relocated and a different 90 elbow is required over stock pulley boost. So lots of down time fabbing for correct fitment is what i meant.

Whipple hits a home run every time but lots of drama with Procharger if you dont stick with the basic kit and start adding the red race valve more boost. Hundreds of posts here to read decide for yourself.

Whipple or Paxton id say but im a happy Whipple owner. If you want a centi Paxton is far above the Procharger kit.

if you don't have a oil separator get one... they work. When oil vapors get sucked into the blower and mix with air/fuel the octane quality goes down hill and causes knock.

Just a torque converter away looks like

nice build! did you reuse all the gaskets/ damper seal on the timing cover? i'm getting ready to do this also.

Whats next?

There's someone on this board recently with a Fore system that had a pump puke out quick as well I'm not sure what the cause is but I don't think the BAP is to blame.

Whipple here easy install

what gaskets did you re use?

Nice times! What pulley?

NGK here also no issues on 3 f/i coyotes

Words of wisdom!

boundary's any good? First time ive heard about them

do you have any pics of the install ?

move the bungs for what? sounds like a rip off. Get a good remote tuner like Ken B and be done

Maybe if it was a 5 lb poop! Lol Nice runs Red!

The red race valve is too big so trimming the elbow is impossible so it wont collapse. The easiest solution is running an open intake with a screen or a different valve for the needed clearance and a hard plastic elbow.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-15-whipple-css.html I have it and its the best available