Search results

LUND Racing.

OH I do have a graph that shows before and after. Numbers on this are a little off. This graph is a Mustang dyno that is not calibrated. We have found this one to be low reading by 18-20 percent. Bottom line is 93 on the 3.625 pulley. Top line is 3.5 Pulley and E85. Every dyno reads way...

I dont have a before pull on pump gas :( The belt that shipped with my Stage 2 kit was a Gates RPM 106 inch belt. Whipple put out a new chart that is just the standard gates or gates HD belts. NO MORE RPM belts. Here is the chart.

You are sitting right where I do for the track. 3.5 Inch pulley and E85. Its pretty fun on track days :) I because I am already on the second block i do the 3.75 inch pulley on pump gas. Only takes a few minutes to swap so I do it just to be safe.

Cylinder 7 and 8 were 60 PSI lower than the other 6 after that track day. Decided to do MPR shortblock upgrade before i had it let go big.

My 2016 with a Gen 2 2.9 Whipple gets track use. I have the over-sized heat exchange as well. I end up too tired to keep going before the car does. Now to be fair I did blow the stock short block up at the track on boost. Upgraded to an MPR racing short block and have had zero issues now.

Here is mine on e85 on 3.5 inch pulley. Dips on graph are from belt slip. Issue has since been resolved after going to the belt type and size Dustin Whipple recommended.

I have the upgrade intercooler. I sit 15-20 over ambient.

Boom! There you go sir. I did mine just like this. picked up a borrow a fuse from Napa. Page 51 in the older instructions that i attached.

Just FYI. I asked this question in TVS/Whipple group on facebook. Dustin Whipple himself jumped in and said they stopped using RPM belts completely. Said they had a ton of failures. There is a new list of belt lengths out now from whipple and all are using the standard gates belts. Last page of...

Hey Man, Lund has the instruction page where it shows what fuse to use from the first whipple kits. If your pump has a harness that runs to the IMRC connection at the back of the block you will need to cut that off. One of the wires goes to common ground and the other gets wired to a tap a fuse...

Whipples competition kit still uses the fuse tap i think.

Neither does PBD. Whipple used to provide a fuse tap and have theirs wired the way PBD and Lund require. In fact LUND sent me instructions from Whipple that were older that had the fuse tap in the instructions. Later on whipple started using one of the IMRC runner plugs to control the pump and fans.

Shoot me a private message man. Im fair.

Looking to purchase a GT hood in Magnetic color if possible. I’m in Texas and can travel. Let me know what ya got!

I wanted to jump in here. I have the Exedy ET04XD twin disk clutch and have this exact same thing happening. IF I turn the engine off everything is butter smooth. If the engine is running and in neutral and I let the clutch out kinda fast, I feel the detent/pop at the very end of the pedal...

That would be awesome! Do you have it attached to anything?

:thumbsup:

Pretty sure LUND and PBD got it figured out ;)

Huh? Where do you get that from?