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In reviewing my datalogs I've started noticing that the car usually goes rich (about .8 lambda) when the throttle is chopped and trans placed in neutral as the car returns to idle. It usually stays rich 2-3 seconds before leveling back out to 1 lamba when it will idle pretty much indefinitely...

I have read that positive knock while "cruising" is deemed acceptable. Maybe not desirable but acceptable. My question is….what defines this? Under what circumstances and how much knock is acceptable? I often see positive knock very briefly at throttle tip-in. Mostly when accelerating...

Truck is a 94 Ranger. 4.0 v6 5-speed 2wd. Has 220k miles. Ive had the truck for 2 years and have put about 40k miles on it, never had an issue. I just joined a Ranger forum but it doesn't look to be very active. Theres some smart folks on here so I figured it wouldn't hurt to post here, too...

I'm trying to diagnose the source of some knock I'm seeing under a certain set of conditions. I will occasionally see the car register 2-3* positive knock when rolling into the throttle after a shift. Not super heavy throttle, but not real easy acceleration either. The positive knock will stay...

My car has 7k miles, and has been tuned since 5k. I had to reflash the stock tune for a very brief period of time, and since I have flashed my performance tune back in, Ive been seeing positive knock at part throttle; Something I have never seen before. Now while its possible I may simply be...

I've started seeing some very light knock at part throttle. After reviewing some datalogs, a knowledgeable member recommended checking the condition of my plugs as weak spark could cause a subtle issue like I'm seeing. I'd rather just put a new set in if I'm taking them out to inspect. Is there...

I flashed back to my stock tune for a brief time and am now back to my Lund tune. I noticed I was getting some knock at part throttle and at throttle top in after a hard shift the first couple times I "got in it" after flashing the tune back in. The knock has slowly gotten less and less...

I know these cars have a "smart" charging system. The "voltage" gauge on my dash will read anywhere from 12.5-14.1 and sometimes will fluctuate more than I'd think it should. I've been watching it more closely lately and have noticed that when I come out to the dr if I check voltage before...

I've noticed recently that my exhaust tips have become discolored from heat. They have the characteristic rainbow looking effect and are overall yellowed slightly. Car has 7k miles and has been Lund tuned since about 5k. I'm pretty sure this didn't happen until I was tuned. They have sssired me...

My car has always done this but I'm curious why...my exhaust is fairly loud and Sometimes the exhaust note will seem to change at idle. It's like it switches back and forth every 20 seconds or so. Rpm is steady for the most part but will at times bounce between 730ish-760ish and this is not...

I seem to recall seeing this mentioned in a thread some time back but I can't find it now. I'm wondering how accurate the car's AFR gauge is? It does not agree with my nGauge. The nGauge always reads lower numerically (richer) than the car on both banks. I primarily look at lambda as I know...

I have had my cars almost two years now and up until the last week it was a weekend toy. Any time I drove it, I drove it pretty hard and was never disappointed. Car runs strong and I have no complaints there. However I've now started driving it more regularly, and have been driving in conditions...

I just put a set of cat deletes on my car. Factory shorty headers, just deleted cars and flex pipe. I've noticed now that under the right conditions, if I give the car a hard rev, I'll see some +knock on the knockr pid. I've never noticed this before, but I've problem never revver the car like...

Started my car today and my ngauge display was just solid black with a couple red lines going across. I touched it several times and it was just stuck on this screen. Shut the car off, unplugged the gauge from the obd port, plugged it back in and started the car again. Everything seems fine now...

I'm hoping maybe someone had the MAK cat deletes and has since upgraded to longtubes. I'd like to buy the cat deletes and driver side factory shorty header as an assembly. I don't have anyone I trust to cut and weld on my car so I'd rather buy a complete setup and just bolt it on. I realize this...

I've noticed that in my car you can be running down the road, pop the trans in neutral, let the clutch out and it will start to slowly idle down. But sometimes, and only sometimes.....if you push the clutch back in to put the car back in gear, the rpm will start to raise. If you hold the clutch...

Car is a 2016 Mustang GT located in Nashville TN. The only options I spec'd on the car was the Performance package and Recaro seats. I special ordered this car August 16th, 2015. It was built September 29th, and I took delivery October 19th. I took it home within an hour of it being unloaded off...

Something is wrong with the clutch in my car and it won't move from my garage. ford roadside service is going to come pick it up and take it to the dealer on Monday. I'm hoping the tow driver will know a good spot to hook the winch to but I don't see one. Where are the recommended recovery...

Update... se post #6 I'm getting some negative spark (not knockR) at idle and when blipping the throttle from idle. Never noticed this before, although I've never really looked either. Total spark looks normal while driving, and The car is always adding timing. I've never seen a + knockR...

When I flashed my initial tune from Lund, I noticed the car idled noticeably higher. I asked, and they sent me a revision for a stock idle. Car now idles as low as 620-630 sometimes, but at other times still idles around 740. Running the AC compressor does seem to make it idle higher, but not...