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Interesting that they explicitly talk about the difference between rear and front rims, a subject of a recent thread about mysterious rubbing noises up front and how to identify rims based on Schrader valve locations...

Square in the back, triangle in the front. Rim was doing its level best to cut open the strut.

See - you can teach an old dog new tricks. Now I can't unsee it: the factory PP1 rims do the same thing. There's a straight section holding the stem in the back, and a triangular one in the front. :like: Confirmed... left side is wrong. :party:

Thanks to this thread I figured out what was wrong with my setup... I had a local tire shop put new shoes on my rims (I've got a PP1) and turns out the left side has rims and tires swapped. Tires are correct, but rims are wrong... and certain situations make the rim rub. Went out with a tape...

I realized my dunking in black paint wasn't complete until I replaced my stock chrome with black Gorillas. I bought a 24" breaker bar just for removal (along with padded socket). 150 foot pounds is no joke.

You replaced all your car parts?

There are three posts - you can see the little plus signs (a couple broke off, the center one is still intact on mine) in a line from the horse's ear to the bump in the tail. Now that I think of it, this is from the front... I assume they are the same in the EB back, but what made me think of...

I measure 8-1/16" x 3-1/16" or so

I thought exactly the same thing, just reading the title. Cold screech? It's a belt. :like: Ok, yeah, clutch changes it... that's something else. In the immortal words of Col. Rhodes (in Iron Man): "...I think you should lead with that next time." :wink:

I remember thinking as a kid that getting hit in a car was a payday. Having gone through a few of these now, turns out that's not the case at all. Even when you're not in any way at fault, you lose. You lose time, there's no way you get the same thing for what money you get, you're just...

Do you guys change your own oil? Does "doesn't use a drop" mean you get 10 quarts back out again? I've done 5 oil changes ranging from 4k to 8k miles over the years and I pretty consistently get 1.5 5-quart jugs back out of a 2-jug fill a year later (I've been super consistent at 100% oil life...

They sure did! I bought the car sight unseen from a dealership several states over; I sent them that picture and they sent me a new liner. Been good ever since.

Yep, mine came this way (bought with 13,000 miles on the clock)

For the saddle-shaped gas tank... sender on the passenger side, pump on the driver side

This is the bottom line. F* around and find out. If you can afford it, go right ahead. If you need insurance because you can't, then don't get a tune.

This calls for the gas axe

GM 8-6-4. Remember that? What a terrible idea that was.

Whatever we got: good vibes, prayin', good thoughts - best wishes to you for a good outcome. 🍀

As agmattocks says, Raceseng Slammers are the ones to go for. I have the red one: https://raceseng.com/products/slammer-ford-mustang-adapter-6-speed-reverse-left-up?variant=39763837190246 It's heavy and not overly hot in the Southeastern US sun. Not quite spherical; it's a little more...

I have stock active exhaust and "quiet start" time set. It's still friggin' LOUD at zero dark 30, even without aftermarket noisemakers. I'm going to bet pushing is your only option to keep them from complaining.