Agree, Jacking Rails are a must, Catch Can is also a must IMO, I have a JLT and LOVE it. I would also focus on any rear suspension you can afford as you will get wheel hop just pulling out of the car wash with light throttle otherwise. Maybe a switchback turn signal kit?
Though, as mentioned...
Sounds like you just need to add a few more parts to that order to make it worth it you know... :sunglasses:
Steeda subframe braces, jacking rails are easy bolt on mods that are not too intimidating for a person new to working on their car. Hell, I didn't even Jack my car to put the jacking...
No I did not feel the bracket was needed as I have not really had an issue with slop or missed shifts that has not been corrected with BG SyncroShift II and the trans mount. I was enticed by the idea of a shorter throw which is why I went with the short throw only option (saved some $$)...
So going from the factory mount to the 70D was very noticeable. nVh was apparent, on startup you could feel the vibrations in the floor a little and could hear the gears and clutch through the boot area very clearly.
Driving with the 70D I had a very certain shift at every gear with much less...
As far as I know they didn't have low oil back on 99' either. It was in my 99' that I spun a rod bearing and learned that the factory oil pressure sensor would show "good to go" down to 4psi...
Have not trusted it since
Saw that video a couple of days ago and thought "well damn"...I also realized I crossed the old man bridge at some point and refuse to use anything but "the horse that brought me", lol
From what I hear and read OP lund tunes are top notch and I'm certain you will not look back.
Northernyote:
A whole industry and decades of testing are wrong; different strokes for different folks.
Starting to feel like a marrige...
I find it funny that guys who have no need for a CAI come in here spouting shit from their mouths when obviously they have no experience with a CAI since they are running a whipple with a stock airbox.
Why jump in a CAI thread and comment when it obviously does not apply? Perhaps before you...
So I plan on re-installing the factory mount to ensure the vibration does not continue. Then I will install the 60d to see if there is much difference.
I did swap tranny fluid today to BG syncroshift and man did that smooth out the vibration. Amazing what a fluid change can do but again, I do...
It's not my daily by any means but the vibration is a little distracting so I went ahead and grabbed the 60d so I can compare...grabbed the short throw as well so I'm excited to see what waits.
Probably off the master cylinder assembly. I imagine that the ports are plugged during shipping to the factory so no debris gets inside.
Just based off the location you found it and it obviously plugged a port and that's the only thing on that side of the car that I know of which this could...
I put it along the broken part, put a glob on each side along the crack the push it on. Once you have the broken section lined up smear the glob you put on the flat sides across the crack until the crack is covered.
You might have to hold it in place for a minute or two but it should solidify...
JB Weld Plastic Epoxy
Strong enough to hold my broken bumper tab on my 2017.
And yes I know the dealer will replace however I have a very nice clear bra on it and I would be out of pocket for that so I just glued the damn thing...
I have not had issue with AM however after reading and hearing about their customer service I would much rather support a business that has the communities consensus of being an outstanding place to spend my hard earned money.
I cancelled all pending orders I had with AM and will be shopping at...
Car is now aligned (except front as I do not have Caster/Camber plates) and the vibration is there though it does seem more manageable now. However, it is still a little more than I like (expected some) so I am going to go through what I have read is about a 450 mile break in period and see how...