It can be removed but will leave holes. You can see if someone in the area is willing to trade you their trunk lid so you don't have to cover the holes up.
Yep. Having the right tool can make this process much easier.
Pick up a mini-ratchet (3-4 inch length like this one: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200392524_200392524) and you can have it off in less than 5 minutes.
I noticed about 0.5 to 1 MPG improvement, definitely not a huge change. As others mentioned, the throttle feels more responsive and the car 'feels' lighter.
I would like to stay this path as I'm not looking for crazy power, but you pretty much got it, it's going to need head and cam work along with every bolt-on available. I would imagine a slight bore increase (5.0L to ~5.2L) along with slightly higher compression can get you to about 500 RWHP...
Right now our choice other than DSS is Shaftmaster or Dynotech. I just installed a Dynotech; so far so good but I've only gotten about a hundred miles on it. Seems to be okay in town and on the highway up to 80 MPH.
If this unit starts having balancing or harmonic issues, there's a shop in...
+1. A couple more things you can try:
- Update the handheld through SCT's Device Updater: http://www.sctflash.com/techarticle.php?TID=2
- Verify the Computer Code on your PCM matches the tune's. That's going to be that four character code (three letters and a number) on top of the PCM.
2000 Mustang GT
2002 Mustang GT
2008 Shelby GT500
2015 Mustang GT
Worse thing is that this is a list of Mustangs I've gone through up to this point in the last 9 months. The 2000 GT I bought from a small lot for cheap, fixed it up and a colleague bought it from me two months later. Still see...