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200$obo

When I did the 10.25 in my truck I got the solid spacer from ratech.

Read the title and thought to myself “dam, wish I would’ve known all I had to do was ask and these guys would’ve helped buy my new set of wheels” lol

First video, “Shit, ‘am boi”, instantly knew who you were dealing with… There’s a certain mindset of some people out there that have complete and total disregard for anyone other than themselves. Makes me want a dash cam even more than I already do. He should not only be fired but held...

If the shop won’t let me pull it in and out they don’t get my business. Tire barn has been good to me. Sorry you have to deal with this.

That’s interesting, did he explain why or say what clutch’s are safe?

Keep us updated, would love to see a “how to” on the Edelbrock

I’ve been almost 2 years and 10k miles with the roush phase 2 on my mt-82 car. No issues yet. I’m intrigued with the 3160 swap idea though. Would be something to consider if I ever do break anything.

I have heard of it now that you mention it, didn’t know it was like that on my car though so thank you. My mustang is the first vehicle I’ve owned/worked on with rear disks

Done a lot of brake jobs but a little lost when you say (screwed back in). Could you shed some light on this?

What’s the diameter on the roush?

Oh, I’m an hour or 2 west of there

Hey now, I live in a small hicktown in Indiana lol. My Speedometer is about 2mph off and usually set my cruise at 5-10 over the limit so I’m actually doing 3-8 over and regularly see local and state cops. Only ever been busted for a seat belt once and this year I didn’t get my plate renewal form...

I was EXTREMELY disappointed the first time I gave her a rip and couldn’t hear it. What insane person told the engineering team to quiet it down?! I decided to try the fosters sound tube and it’s bitter sweet. At low speeds you can hear kind of a sucking sound but at WOT you can really hear the...

I figured I was alone until I seen this thread. Never throws codes other than cats on rare occasions. Wasn’t too worried about either since I plan to do long tubes and custom tune after the warranty is up.

I have the phase 2 on my 2019, dealer installed and roush calibration. I have the same symptoms, definitely starts different from stock and if the car is warm and I shut it off for a few minutes then start it back up it will rough idle for 2-3 seconds then clears up.

What made you decide on that one vs interchiller and killer chiller?

1.7 60’ and it was bogging a little. Still on stock clutch and ds though so I didn’t want to push it much more. Have not tried 20psi on the street, afraid of overheating the sidewalls and causing a blowout

Drove to the track and aired down to 20psi, not sure of psi after burnout, it was hot that day, 85-90. 24 on the street was cold, it was like 53 degrees that morning. I don’t want to blow out a sidewall or have it wiggle during my Mexico trips so I haven’t played around with low pressures much...