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Make/Model/engine/trans/packages: 2017 GT350 Track/Course: The Ridge Motorsports Park - Shelton, WA Best Lap Time: 1:53.25 Brake Pads: Raybestos ST45 front, ST43 rear Tires (Size & Model): 305 square Goodyear Supercar 3 Suspension: 350R springs & rear bar Other Mods: Vorshlag camber plates

Can't argue with Jamal. I assumed it was just a stud with a through-hole and in such a case the lanyard would be completely useless. So I took the nut off to have a look....

I'm not entirely sure that's what it's for. In the event of a crash a 6 oz piece of plastic coming off the hood is going to be rather trivial compared to other parts that may be flying around. Even if it did hit the windshield it's likely just going to bounce off. Also, look at where it's...

That would be the one.

I have a number of them ground nearly flat from a dip coming out of a turn at my local track. I installed the ZL1 Addons splitter protectors last year and several of those are getting worn down too. I suppose I could avoid the dip, but where's the fun in that?

Any better in what regard? The factory pads are actually pretty good - aside from being a bit dusty.

And the spring should be removed and not replaced on the 15-18s. The pedal is smooth and not stiff without the spring. My feeling is that the Steeda spring is just an easy way for them to make a few bucks. It's not needed.

On the 350 but I'd bet the basic car is the same. I kicked that spring to the curb on my S197 GT too. It's there to provide a "comfortable" pedal - that's it.

The clutch pedal isn't that stiff with the spring removed altogether. Neither factory spring or the Steeda spring are needed. And yes. I'm aware that this is a 4 year old thread revival.

About a week. Dropped it off last Friday afternoon for a Monday appointment.

Car is back from the dealer with a brand new engine harness courtesy of Ford Motor Company. Wiring to the fuel pressure sensor looks noticeably larger too.

You may look at the Ferodo DS2500s. I ordered a couple sets from GT350brakes.com before I moved to Raybestos pads.

They're $275-$300 each.

I've scheduled an appointment at a nearby dealer. I'm perfectly capable of fixing it but the car is still under warranty so I'll let them do it free of charge.

350R shocks & struts are different. I can't say how different other than it has something to do with the orifice the fluid passes through being smaller.

It appears to be a wiring harness issue. I can move the wires at the end of the connector and watch the voltage go from 3v to 0v and back 3v and has a P0192 stored.

It turns out mine was the same way. I've been chasing a problem and thought it could be it. Turns out it wasn't but I'm glad I caught it anyway. I put mine back together with a little blue Loctite.

This did not resolve the issue. It still misfires when the engine is warm and at moderate RPM throttle tip-in. I drove around logging data with HP Tuners and found that fuel pressure is momentarily dropping to 0. I'll hook it up to Forscan tomorrow.

A quick update. The car has started to intermittently cut out under moderate throttle while driving at street legal speeds. This evening I put the car on the lift to inspect the output shaft per the TSB posted by @JAJ. While the flange itself appears to be a press fit, the retaining nut was...

+1 on the possibility of it being residual from spilling on the belly pan. I've done it on accident more than once and have pulled the pan to clean it off. I don't like to knowingly leave things like that. It just creates a bigger mess later. There is one other possibility though. The oil...