I’d disagree on it not being needed. In fact, going from foot braking my burnout as you mentioned, to using the line lock consistently improved my .60 by .05.
I also run my tires at 18 psi.
Good luck.
I wouldn't mind a CJ on my 18 A10, but I can imagine changing the mounts with my longtubes on being a pain.
I'll get it done one day.....wish I would've thought to install the Steeda mounts when I installed the exhaust.
After looking at them, it's doable (Kooks).
I just hope he doesn't cross thread the studs going into the head getting frustrated to finish. I thought I did on the second from front up top, but it pushed through a tough spot. Let's just say I don't plan on ever removing that one particular stud:)
02 sensor cross threading would be a cake...
What type of headers?
Like mentioned above, you should get the top studs in first before installing the bottoms. I used Kooks 1 7/8, and had to skip the stud installation on some ports due to interference with the header primary while trying to tightened the nut.
I installed the rear upper...
I had no issues at the same track on the same day. I also have drag oriented mods to help avoid the traction issues associated with street tires on a race track surface.
Tires
Stop the Hop
Axles
DS
Not at all, and honestly much of my pain can be avoided with some lessons learned from previous installs. If you get it post up and I’ll upload my pictures and descriptions on what to avoid. It’s a solid piece.
I called every DS manufacturer and inquired about driveline noise and vibration. No...
I’ve got the GForce unit and it works great. No vibrations, but I did run into some on initial installation. Make sure you mark the front and rear stock shaft locations before installing. All is well after realigning and clocking the shaft.
Prepare to hear some rear gear steady hum at crusing...