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What rearend gears are you running?

I will try to make it. What's the best ET are you going run? Yeah, yeah I know. Take a guess.

Did you need someone to look at it, or drive it and do a full evaluaition?

So Diego, do we get to drive the car after it's fixed and running?

Glad it worked out. After you get the final version of your tune, let us know how the car is performing.

Reflashing sounds like a good idea. Mobil super is what I found works best for my Ecoboost. Adam at Tune+ at what one time preferred Valero super.

Are you running premium gas?

Just pay Ford the money. When it comes to electrical items( ecm, starter, alternator) always buy new. You will save yourself major headaches down the road over used.

Well, I didn't think your situation would have gotten this bad. I thought the hard part was going to be getting the engine physically in the car. While the guys at PBH is researching this, your last resort might be this(shop around as there is probably a better price than this)...

Diego, stop going in circles and call PBH now! Maybe they can solve your problem and get the car on the road.

Try these guys in West Palm Beach: https://pbhperformance.com/product-category/coyote-swap-components/control-packs-coyote-swap-components/

Best to post this in the Forced Induction section as you will get more/better responses there: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/forums/forced-induction-5-0l-v8-engine.165/

Call or email John Urist at Hellion. He's usually quick to respond and is very helpful

Do you have a 1/4 mile track near you? It should run low to mid 13's. If it runs that, then the car is fine.

Take a look at this: https://www.cobbtuning.com/ford-ecoboost-and-the-octane-adjust-ratio-monitor/

I have heard it being referred to as Octane Adjust Ratio(“OAR”) or Learned Octane Ratio (LOR) with the optimal reading being”-1.0”. Are you sure you are using the correct gauge, as you refer to it as Learned Relative Octane. On the Cobb Accessport you can pull up the timing gauges for each...

The first problem is that steering wheel cover-you need to get rid of that. Just kidding. I would go under the car after it has cooled down and look at all the heat shields for the exhaust. It's difficult to hear the sound except for when you are driving with the door open-it sounds like a...

Diego, still no ECU yet?

Here you go: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/a10-launch-tips.143419/ Your "lightweight" car should be doing very low 12's, high 11"s. I don't see a modified Type R doing that.

You need to leave the line/launch at idle @800 rpm. If you are brake-torquing to 2,000-2,300 you are getting too much wheelspin off the line. This is why these mediocre cars are beating you.