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My car started as a base model. The springs need steeda control arms with the extended ball joints to fix geometry. My car was borderline undrivable before the control arms but now handles way better than stock. Ive done a ton of other suspension parts since then but the springs and control arms...

I went through the exact same thing after lowering my car. After dealing with it for a few months, I loosened everything in the rear end and retorqued everything to spec. That did the trick and its been good ever since then

another potential issue that ive seen wear out centers is running too wide of a tire for a given rim size. Squeezing the wider tire onto the narrow rim causes it to bow up in the center and wear faster that the outsides. What size tires/rim are you running?

Ive been on the sportlines for the last year and they (with supporting mods) handle a hell of a lot better than the stock setup.

https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-Mustang-Front-Roll-Center-Bumpsteer-Correction-Kit-2015-2020_p_15413.html thats with the bump steer kit.

you NEED the roll center correction control arms. My car with the sportlines was barely driveable before adding them

thats a good question. I get my readings from a sensor but I have no clue how temperature would effect manual readings

im seeing similar. The stations that used to show at 85 are now showing 82ish

As far as ford, and the vast majority of the people who purchase an eb mustang, are concerned, it making more power than the 2.0 makes it a step up. Would it be nice for ford to engineer 200% headroom into every motor they desgin? Of course it would but itd be unreasonable to expect it as the norm.

The hpfp and injectors also dont have enough headroom to support the additional 30% fuel flow that e85 requires

The 2.3 makes more power than any of the 2.0 motors. It would have been nice if they had reinforced some areas of the motor but id say were pretty lucky that the motor will hold as much extra power as it does. Try adding 50% more hp to a lot of other motors and see what happens

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The block is supposedly good to 425-450. I think the hpfp runs out of steam around the same time. Im currently running a port injection setup to support e85. Anything over 450 definitely needs to be on a 2.0 semi-closed deck block. There are higher flow hpfp out there but they are $$$$

Hey everyone I have a set of borla atak mufflers that Id like to trade for a set of s-type mufflers. The atak sounds awesome but I need something a little quieter. Thanks

The wear on that makes it look like it was def installed backwards. The worn ring around the gasket is where it was sitting against the turbo instead of against the tapered end of the down pipe. There is a steel sleeve inside the gasket which directs the exhaust gas into the down pipe instead...

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Where else have you heard of the gaskets having issues? This is the first time ive heard of it being a problem. If it is a common issue ill def start keeping a closer eye on mine. Dont want exhaust gases leaking into the engine bay unnecessarily.

from the first picture it looks like you have the gasket installed backwards which would probably explain why it keeps falling apart. the tapered side should be facing away from the motor

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