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Well, the HPFP is on that side, right on top of the passenger valve cover. So having it be louder over there would follow. I actually bought a 20 dollar go-pro knockoff to mount underhood to try and get a better recording of this sound without the cabin distortion, but I haven't taken the time...

The oil pressure bit is normal. There is an oil bypass solenoid on these cars, the computer controls the oil pressure...that's why you see it jumping around. As for the rattle...same here. Mine was very quiet initially, and at 8k miles it's louder now. The colder it is outside, the louder...

Sorry I've been missing from this thread for a while. Been working on (and still working on) some home projects that have prevented me from continuing to chase this down. I have everything I need to install mine, except for the harness. I've thought about tossing some tap in connectors, but...

Nah, the active exhaust factory wiring runs inside. I'd bet those are for Magride maybe?

Working on it. We have identified all of the area's where you need to tie in for power and control. I'm working with someone now on getting a harness made. The control lines are behind the drivers kick panel, and power is behind the passenger kick panel.

Correct, you can either tap into the wires at that location, or plug into the harness on the empty side. In either case you'll have to run wire unless you want to replace the entire body harness.

From here, we can all tap into those wires and run control, then tap into switched power, or maybe someone here would be willing to make a more professional type getup that plugs into the back of C264. This is just for the control, I haven't hunted for where the factory power ties in, but I...

Ok Gents, sorry this took so long. I finally had some time to yank that kick panel. Good news, the wires terminate there. So, if you pull your drivers kick panel, behind that you'll find 3 plugs right down near the dead pedal. The one closest to the firewall is C264, and that's the one you...

No, but I'm finally home this weekend, and hoping to verify that pinout location. I've already got all my parts too, minus the wire I'll need to run from the control harness back to the mufflers anyway, so I need to validate that pinout before I can wire mine up. I suspect the connection we...

Your a bit of a drive, but I may know someone interested. PM me if you would please.

Not yet. The weather here has been extremely uncooperative. The few weekends we've had in what feels like the last 2 months where it wasn't raining, I haven't been home. I'll be home this weekend, so if the weather cooperates I'll finally have the time to pop that panel off and confirm with...

For the Left side: 89: BU-GN (Ground) 52: BN-GN (Signal) Right: 90: WH-BU (Ground) 52: WH-BU (Signal) Plus the power feed off the fuse box.

Yeah, that's my plan. I bought a used F150 last weekend though and it's been a huge time suck. I hate buying used stuff, but wasn't going to drop the cash on a new one. So I'm having to work my way through all the maintenance on the thing just so I know where I'm starting from...plus fixing a...

Not yet, was going to do some digging this weekend, but...rain. And my garage is full of a torn apart fox.

I kind of doubt it, but I suppose it's possible.

My dealer gave me one when they had my car for the oil pan leak. I had to ask, but they covered it for me. Being kind can work wonders.

No promises, but I've considered playing with some options here once I get active working on my 18. Someone put together a "carberry" raspberry pi kit, and if the TB is PWM, or some other easy to track signal on the canbus then I may end up working the carberry into the system with some input...

I have a complete catback for my project. But if you don't, you'll need to cut your factory catback.

I'm still waiting on parts now also. But I did manage to get my hands on all the wiring diagrams needed to figure out where to tie into the system for those without the pre-wire on a 2018. From what I've had time to look over already, it looks like the factory wiring should terminate at the...

You would need to identify which fields control the magride setup and disable them. Not sure anyone has actually tried that yet. I suspect the number of people looking to remove that feature will be relatively low. I wouldn't mind adding it, but I doubt it'd be worth the trouble.